As a picturesque flower guarantor and much swarmed by butterflies, summer lilac enchants young and old. The furious flower symphony is closely related to skilful pruning at the right time. In this tutorial you will acquire the gardening tools for all types of cuts and dates, which make a buddleia the highlight of your garden. Important differences in the pruning of common summer lilac (Buddleja davidii) and weeping summer lilac (Buddleja alternifolia) are no longer hidden from you here.

Heavy cuts should be made in early spring

Table of Contents

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  1. Types of cuts with appointments
  2. build-up cut
  3. maintenance cut
  4. flower care
  5. taper cut
  6. Cut buddleia differently
  7. Training cut high stem
  8. Cut-relevant profile
  9. frequently asked Questions

    10. Suitable type of cut for every objective - table with dates

    Lavish blooms, shapely growth, long life and rejuvenation - the good-natured pruning tolerance of summer lilacs fulfills almost every request of the gardener. The following table summarizes all types of pruning with the best dates:

    cut type objective meeting
    build-up cut build a stable framework in the spring of the first 3 to 4 years
    maintenance cut optimal abundance of flowers, long lifespan, beautiful shrub shape mid-February to early March
    flower care long flowering period several times during the summer
    taper cut revitalize senile buddleia Late winter to March 1st
    Cut care panicle summer lilac Preservation of summer blooms Mid-February to early March and after flowering
    Upbringing of tall stems (weeping summer lilac) Development into a round-crowned, flowering standard Mid-February to early March and after flowering

    Prune buddleia only when it's not freezing and the blazing sun isn't hitting the branches. On other garden shrubs, pruning is possible down to - 5 degrees Celsius. The brittle wood of buddleia, on the other hand, should be cut when the temperature is above freezing. Rainy weather is a hindrance to flower care, especially in summer. Wet wood impairs wound healing and serves as the perfect entry point for diseases or pests. If necessary, postpone the maintenance cut to a later date with dry and overcast weather.

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    Think of wildlife when cutting time

    The recommended dates for pruning summer lilacs are not only due to growth reasons. Far-reaching measures such as maintenance and regeneration pruning are regulated by law to protect breeding birds. The Federal Nature Conservation Act stipulates that between March 1st and November 30th, only cuts in this year's growth and for flower care are permitted. Thinning out, sitting on the stick and similarly radical cuts are to be carried out outside the grace period. Regardless of when a shrub or tree is pruned, care must be taken to ensure that wildlife is not disturbed in any way by the action.

    Build up summer lilac with a stable framework

    A stable basic structure favors the harmonious structure of your summer lilac. In the first three to four years, therefore, give the strongest three to five ground shoots special attention as illustrated below. How to make the perfect build-up cut:

    • In the first year select 3 to 5 ground shoots as a framework and cut back to 30 centimeters
    • Cut off all remaining shoots at the base
    • Extend the skeleton shoots by 15 to 20 centimeters annually between the second and fourth year
    • Shorten side shoots on the skeleton to cones with 1 to 2 pairs of eyes

    By default, the frost hardiness of summer lilac noticeably decreases as its ground shoots age. For this reason, start with one in the fourth year of standing continuous rejuvenation in the shrub framework. Choose a promising annual ground shoot, clip it back to 30 centimeters and remove the weakest trellis shoot from the early stages.

    A short skeleton with 3 to 5 lower shoots prevents sparse growth.

    tips

    If you plant summer lilacs as bare-root goods, initiate the formation of a stable basic structure with a plant cut. For this purpose, cut back all shoots by half after planting or between November and March. By applying the scissors just above a pair of eyes, you favor the subsequent budding.

    Strong maintenance pruning promotes pompous abundance of flowers

    A summer lilac sprouts long branches in spring, on which it blooms in summer. Accordingly, no valuable buds can fall victim to pruning. On the contrary, the number and size of flower panicles increase the more you cut away the dead wood from the previous year. After the build-up cut, the maintenance of the cut continues as follows:

    • Cut back shoots belonging to the framework by half, or at least to 100 cm
    • From the fourth year, shorten the oldest shoots down to 10 cm
    • As a replacement, cut a young, strong shoot down to a height of 30 cm
    • All faded side branches from the previous year radical on 2 to 4 buds trimming

    There is no cause for alarm if a skeleton of short shoots with even shorter stubs is left from the cut buddleia, as shown in the figure below. The annual exchange of young for old among the scaffolding shoots serves to continuously rejuvenate and effectively prevents premature senescence.

    In the spring, remove all unfavorable shoots and all dead wood. The two oldest skeleton shoots have to give way to make room for young bottom shoots. Finally, cut back all skeletal and side shoots.

    digression

    Moderate pruning prevents sparse habitus

    The rigorous pruning of summer lilac is a double-edged sword. If you cut down to a short stub, you will achieve the optimum in terms of abundance of flowers. However, sparse, unattractive growth and the formation of unsightly whorls of branches can be expected. By being more moderate in your cut, you'll give your Buddleia a more appealing silhouette. Ideally, you vary the cutting heights, shortening well-placed shoots by a third. Only cut back branches that disturb the overall picture as vigorously as the instructions for maintenance pruning recommend.

    Consistently remove faded leaves

    When the majestic panicles of flowers wither in midsummer, more buds are waiting on the side shoots. So that a summer lilac does not invest energy in the formation of capsule fruits, clean out withered inflorescences. Cut the faded panicles until nearest side shoot back. If you continue caring for the flowers regularly, the ornamental tree will retain its picturesque blossoms well into autumn.

    Continuous trimming also prevents unwanted self-seeding, which has given Buddleia a reputation as an invasive plant in some regions. As a precaution, do not dispose of withered flowers on the compost, so that the wind does not scatter the seeds around the back of the garden.

    Rejuvenation thwarts aging - this is how it works

    If the gardener misses the regular replacement of over-aged scaffold shoots, summer lilacs will age in no time. The bush turns into a dense undergrowth of sparsely flowering branches and twigs. The floral tragedy is nevertheless no reason for clearing. Thanks to the pruning tolerance and budding power, you can subject the flowering shrub to a makeover. How to do it right:

    • The best time is in late winter until March 1st
    • Clear out all dead wood beforehand
    • Ideally, transfer senile shoots to a young side shoot in the lower area
    • Cut back young side shoots to 30 cm as new main shoots
    • Shorten ground-borne shoots to 30 cm
    • Prune remaining side branches to stub with 2 eyes

    If there are no young bottom shoots, the prognosis for a new growth worsens. They help the unwilling shrub with a generous dose of fertilizer. Distribute 3 liters of mature compost and 100 grams of horn shavings per square meter of root disk area. (32.93€) Rake in the organic fertilizer superficially and water again. If the supplemental nutrient supply does not result in the growth of fresh ground shoots by next year, the buddleia is exhausted and should be grubbed up.

    Before you grub up an overgrown buddleia, give it one last chance with a rejuvenation pruning.

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    Rejuvenation cut brings sleeping eyes to life

    Gardeners refer to dormant bud plants as sleeping eyes. Their only function is to act as a reserve in case of failure of parts of the plant to ensure continued growth. A dormant eye is below the bark and is usually not visible. Sometimes you can feel the dormant bud as a slight thickening. A makeover pruning is considered a must for the buddleia to activate its dormant eyes. All of the sap pressure is concentrated on the inactive bud sites, causing them to sprout as a branch or leaf.

    Be careful when pruning drooping summer lilacs

    Weeping summer lilac (Buddleja alternifolia) differs from the common summer lilac (Buddleja davidii) in several respects. Long, arching, overhanging side branches form on its upright main shoots. The flowers appear in clusters from June to July. Significant for the cut is that weeping summer lilac on previous year's and old wood blooms. This results in a completely different cut care than on the common summer lilac. You should pay attention to this when cutting:

    • Do not cut weeping buddleia in the first few years
    • Thin out dead shoots and twigs in late winter
    • Strongly overhanging shoot tips after the flowering period lead to a lower standing side shoot
    • Prune back weak, arching side branches to a short spigot on the scaffold shoot

    A moderate replacement of the soil-borne main shoots with young ground shoots is beneficial for vitality and the willingness to flower. If the number of flower clusters dwindles over the years, cut off one or two of the oldest shoots at the base. In contrast to the common buddleia, pruning is only necessary when necessary and not every year.

    Panicle summer lilacs should only be cut after flowering. Faded, overhanging shoots lead you to this year's unbranched side shoot. Thin out individual, senile branches at ground level if they thrive too much. Otherwise, redirect the old wood to this year's shoot that is close to the skeleton.

    tips

    An over-aged weeping buddleia is rejuvenated more carefully than a butterfly bush. Since it hardly has any flower buds anyway, cut off half of the aged shoots at the base between mid-February and early March. Slim down the remaining ground shoots by making a derivation cut on the most promising side branch in the lower area.

    Raise weeping summer lilacs to be standard stems - this is how it works

    The combination of growth characteristics and pruning tolerance recommend hanging summer lilacs for training as a standard. The goal is a round crown four to five main branches, on which the hanging blossoming branches take center stage. In contrast to the picturesque counterpart in majestic shrub form, are for upbringing and maintenance annual cuts necessary. How to proceed professionally:

    • Guide the center drive up the support rod to the desired height
    • Cut off competing bottom shoots and all side shoots at the base
    • Top of stem prune 4 to 6 pairs of buds or leaves above desired crown height

    By cutting the tip of the trunk, you initiate the branching into a crown with at least 4 main branches. Cultivate the main branches to a length of 50 to 60 centimeters so that the elegantly hanging flower branches develop on them. After the flowering period, shorten faded side branches to short stubs on the respective main branch. Stay on the heels of cheeky competitive instincts with scissors and cut them off promptly and at the base. Do the same with all shoots along the trunk that do not belong to the crown.

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    It pays to observe the growth law for top promotion

    The upbringing pruning for the high stem stands and falls with the pruning of the central shoot for the crown formation. Determining the perfect point in time is no longer a mystery, even for beginners if they are familiar with the growth law of peak funding. In every plant, the top bud is the hotspot. Reserve substances flow to it with maximum juice pressure. Consequently, this is where the growth is strongest. Lower-lying bud types are given secondary nutrients. Once the top bud is removed, previously subordinate buds will benefit from the excess juice. You then sprout to form a beautiful crown. Conversely, the law of growth means: premature cutting of the middle shoot tip prevents growth to the desired stem height.

    Important data for cutting care in brief

    After reading this tutorial you will be familiar with all types of cuts and possible stumbling blocks in the care of the cut. If you still have doubts about the right procedure while working on the shrub, remember the following data on common buddleia and weeping buddleia:

    • Growth: deciduous shrub
    • Origin: subtropical and tropical regions
    • Growth height: 200 to 300 cm (dwarf varieties: 60 to 80 cm)
    • Growth width: 150 to 250 cm (dwarf varieties: 50 to 60 cm)
    • Name of the most popular species: summer lilac, butterfly bush (Buddleja davidii)
    • Designation of another species: hanging summer lilac, panicle summer lilac (Buddleja alternifolia)
    • Summer lilac flowering period: July to November
    • Flowering period: Weeping Buddleia: June and July
    • Planting the flowers of summer lilac: on this year's fresh wood
    • Planting the flowers of the Weeping Buddleia: on the previous year's and perennial wood
    • Cutting time for summer lilac: every spring (blossom care in summer)
    • Pruning time for weeping summer lilac: if necessary in February (blossom care in summer)
    • Toxic content: slightly toxic
    • Hardiness: good, decreasing with age

    frequently asked Questions

    Which pruner is better suited for buddleia, bypass or anvil shears?

    Buddleia thrives with a distinctively brittle wood. We recommend using scissors with a bypass mechanism so that the cut does not splinter and cause unnecessarily large cuts. Such models work with two sharp blades that run against each other and leave smooth cuts. Anvil scissors have a sharp and a blunt side, which can lead to bruising with the stubborn wood. To cut shoots up to 2 centimeters in diameter, use one-hand pruning shears. Two-hand pruning shears are suitable for branches up to 4 centimeters thick. A sword saw should only make the cut if the branch diameter is 4 centimeters or more.

    Our summer lilac collapses under the weight of snow every winter. How can we prevent snow breakage?

    An annual, vigorous pruning to promote the abundance of flowers is at the expense of stability. The dense branching alone is not enough to cushion the snow pressure on the leafless buddleia. The ornamental tree gets support if you loosely tie all the branches together with sisal cord or coconut cords before the start of winter. If your garden is in a particularly snowy region, attach the cord to a wooden post so that the shrub does not have to carry the white load alone.

    Is summer lilac poisonous?

    Buddleia species and varieties are classified as slightly toxic. Skin contact with plant parts or plant sap is harmless. The consumption of flowers, leaves and capsule fruits is not recommended. Aside from the horrible taste, toxic glycosides and saponins enter the stomach this way, causing nausea and vomiting.

    We want to transplant our 10 year old buddleia in the fall. Does the measure affect the cut?

    The change of location is inevitably accompanied by the loss of root mass for your summer lilac. There is an imbalance between underground and aboveground growth.You can restore the balance by pruning immediately after transplanting. If you were to wait until the regular date in spring, the shrub would already have suffered damage because the few roots can no longer supply all the shoots.

    I regularly cut off the withered panicles of flowers on my butterfly bush. How should we proceed with the weeping buddleia, because it shouldn't be pruned or should be pruned very little?

    You can also cut off wilted flower clusters on the hanging summer lilac without hesitation. However, you should not hope for a continuation of the flowering period afterwards, as with the common buddleia. It is important to note that you clean off everything that has faded immediately after the flowering period and do not cut too deeply. Depending on the local conditions, the buds for the next year are already in place and are accidentally snatched away by the scissors.

    My 3 year old buddleia has only 2 lower shoots with a few side branches. Nothing grows back in the lower area, although I diligently fertilize. What to do to make the bush grow stronger?

    Regulate disappointing growth of drooping summer lilacs with a strong pruning. This allows the flowering shrub to rebuild with bushy growth. Shorten the two bottom shoots by at least half. Cut back any side branches to short stubs with two eyes. The shrub will not bloom this summer. Only the following year can you look forward to flowers again.

    I would like to incorporate buddleia into a mixed hedge that is intended to act as a privacy screen. What do you think of the idea?

    The most beautiful summer lilac varieties grow funnel-shaped and form a privacy screen from about 120 centimeters during the leafy period. In the lower shrub area, it is advisable to plant an additional privacy screen. For example, the delicate Deutzia (Deutzia gracilis) with a growth height of about 60 centimeters is well suited as underplanting. For a gardener with a lot of patience, one buddleia bush per meter is enough. The privacy screen is available more quickly if you plant two plants per meter. In the spring, the shrubs are cut back to 50 centimeters.

    At the beginning of April I planted two summer lilacs, which sprout immediately. As a result of the last frosty nights, all the leaves are limp and withered on the shoots. Should I cut back now or wait for the next shoot?

    Please wait until mid/end of May. By this time regrowth has started and you can see how far back your buddleia has frozen. If you are unsure of where the transition from dead to healthy wood is on the shoots, scratch a little of the bark with your fingernail. Any brown, dry tissue that appears is deadwood. Light, green-yellow and juicy tissue is vital and will continue to grow. You can use the scissors there.

    The 3 most common cutting mistakes

    If the flowering period of the summer lilac is coming to an end prematurely, the shoots are aging or the flowering period of the panicle summer lilac is completely absent, the shortcoming can be traced back to a failure to take care of the cut. The following table summarizes the three most common pruning errors with tips for effective prevention:

    cutting error damage picture prevention
    withered flowers not trimmed premature end of the flowering period Cut off faded panicles regularly
    never cleared Scaffold shoots age after a few years Thin out dead wood, continuously grow young ground shoots as a replacement for over-aged skeletal shoots
    Weeping Buddleia cut like ordinary Buddleia Failure of this year's flowering period just thin out and replace old shoots with young ones

    tips

    Home gardeners often have to complain about powdery mildew infestation on their butterfly bushes. Warm, humid summer weather significantly increases the risk of infection. Furthermore, unclean cutting tools often transmit the fungal pathogens as early as spring. If a floury, gray-white coating spreads out on the leaves, please grab the scissors immediately. Cut off all affected shoots. Then treat the sick butterfly bush with a spray solution made from one liter of water and one eighth of a liter of fresh milk.

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