Moss in the lawn is a Sisyphus task for many a garden owner. It has to be constantly scarified and fertilized to keep the lawn grassy and nice and homogeneous. However, you can also take specific measures to prevent it and save yourself a lot of follow-up work.

Moss likes to grow in acidic soil and crowds out the lawn

Table of Contents

Show all
  1. the essentials in brief
  2. Why moss in the lawn?
  3. remove moss
  4. Critical Means
  5. moss species
  6. frequently asked Questions

    7. the essentials in brief

    • Moss likes loamy, wet soil and a low pH
    • Treatment methods vary depending on the cause of the moss infestation; generally, good aeration and the application of lime will help raise the pH
    • Fertilizing with calcium cyanamide, blue grain, iron fertilizer or ash is not necessarily recommended for moss infestation

    Why does moss grow in the lawn?

    Like all plants, mosses prefer to grow under certain conditions. And those are generally the opposite of those favored by the weed. This means: good conditions for mosses not only ensure their rapid spread and thus a displacement of grasses, but also create poorer conditions for grass growth from the outset. What promotes the spread of moss in the lawn are, on the one hand, installation and maintenance errors, and on the other unfavorable site characteristics.

    Investment or maintenance errors:

    • Poor quality lawn seed mixes
    • Cut too low
    • Neglected watering

    Unfavorable site characteristics:

    • Loamy, wet soil
    • Too shady conditions (by trees and high hedges)
    • Soil acidity too high (low pH)
    • nutrient deficiency in the soil

    Many mosses thrive in locations that are moist, shady, acidic, and have low vegetation on the soil surface. A lawn on clay soil with a lack of nutrients, which is overgrown by tall trees and is often mowed very closely, is the ideal scenario for weak turf formation and intensive moss growth.

    Successfully remove moss in the lawn

    A scarifier (€84.00) can be used to successfully combat moss

    In order to be able to remove existing moss properly, it must first be removed mechanically - keyword scarifying. There is basically no way around it. But to save yourself the sweaty, backbreaking work with a handheld device, you can also use an electrically operated device.

    Then it's time to address the root cause.

    clay soil and wetness

    A garden soil that is inherently clayey and heavy also holds a lot of water. In such a soil there are good conditions for moss, but bad ones for grass. In order to compensate for the tenacious strength and the tendency to stagnant water, the soil must be improved with sand. To do this, spread a layer of coarse sand about 2 to 3 cm thick in the spring before sowing seeds or even on an existing lawn. With quartz sand (15.85€) you provide the soil with good aeration and loosening material.

    To permanently make the soil more grass-friendly and less moss-friendly, repeat the sanding over a period of 3-5 years.

    the shade

    Tall trees in and around the garden are also moss friendly and at the same time grass unfriendly. Compromises usually have to be made with this problem. Of course, you don't want to cut down all the trees in the garden just to avoid moss. But that is not necessary either. Shrubs and trees that have grown too tall can also be pruned or topped. This can provide significantly more light on the floor.

    Low pH

    You can use a quick soil test to determine whether your soil is acidic. A low pH is not necessarily moss-friendly, in fact it is not grass-friendly. Moss thrives equally well on acidic and calcareous soils. Lawn grass, on the other hand, is no longer in good hands on soil with a pH value below 5 and is quickly displaced by moss. In an acidic soil environment, it is therefore advisable to counteract this with lime. The correct dosage depending on the measured pH value can be found in the instructions for the lime preparation.

    You can find various products for liming in specialist shops:

    • normal garden lime: in heavy garden soil, consists of carbonate of lime and some magnesium
    • bedrock meal: Potassium and some valuable trace elements, dosage for acidic soils: 200 to 300 g per m²
    • algae lime: Derived from coral deposits of red algae, carbonate of lime and many trace elements, is applied during the growing season

    nutrient deficiency

    If you are dealing with a nutrient deficiency, especially a potassium deficiency in the soil, the lawn needs to be strengthened. This gives it the opportunity to form a more closed turf and allow less moss to grow through gaping gaps.

    Lawn fertilizers containing potassium are particularly suitable for this purpose, as they make the grass more stable and resistant. In spring and summer you should supply the lawn with organic long-term fertilizer. In addition, it makes sense to use ammonia and - if the soil pH is low - lime to ensure stronger grass growth.

    Here is an overview of the most important measures against moss-promoting conditions:

    Wet clay soil the shade Low pH nutrient deficiency
    countermeasure Regular sanding Possibly pruning of surrounding trees/shrubs, in some places no lawn (ground cover) Lime treatment per acidification Regular long-term fertilization

    tips

    Proceeding correctly with the lawn system is half the battle. If the ground is still bare, you can compensate for unfavorable ground conditions in advance. In order for a solid, competitive turf to form, don't skimp on the grass seed mix. Inferior cheap products mainly contain fast-growing forage grasses that have little to do with moss.

    In order for the lawn to catch enough light, mow it regularly, but not too short. Otherwise too much leaf mass is taken from it.

    During dry periods, water the lawn regularly.

    Here are some basic tips for biological moss control from a lawn expert:

    youtube

    Means against moss or for lawn fertilization to be viewed critically

    You should not use chemicals to combat moss or fertilize the lawn. The following is problematic:

    • calcium cyanamide
    • blue grain
    • iron fertilizer
    • ash

    calcium cyanamide

    Fertilizing the lawn with calcium cyanamide can be effective, but it is very difficult for laypeople to dose it without provoking the lawn to burn. The toxic agent, which is often used as a herbicide, is therefore less recommended on existing lawns. More likely for new lawns. In this case, calcium cyanamide can be used to create a good supply of nitrogen in the soil.

    blue grain

    Because it is relatively inexpensive and has a kind of all-inclusive character, blue grain fertilizer is popular with many gardeners. Lawns can also be fertilized with blue grain, but the mineral NPK supplier should be used with care. The problem with blue grain is the chemical production of the nitrogen compounds it contains, which in the long run pollute the global biosphere and promote algae growth in inland waters. In addition, overdoses can quickly occur with blue corn, leading to root burning - the lawn-strengthening effect is then literally reversed.

    iron fertilizer

    Iron fertilizer strengthens the lawn and weakens moss

    Strengthening the lawn with iron fertilizer and at the same time taking action against moss only makes sense under certain conditions. First, you should have clearly established that there is an actual iron deficiency in the soil. Only then is it advisable to use iron sulfate to combat moss. Weakening plants can also suffer from iron deficiency due to chlorosis. It is only their ability to absorb enough iron that is actually present that is hampered by too much lime (e.g. due to calcareous irrigation/explosive water).

    Moss can be effectively combated with iron fertilizer, because the plants are generally very sensitive to all forms of iron. However, if you apply fertilizer with iron(II) sulfate, you should not let children or pets on the lawn for at least 3 to 4 days afterwards. Ferrous sulphate preparations are toxic and corrosive. You should therefore also wear protective clothing and gloves when applying.

    ash

    Again and again it is recommended to use ash against moss. The moss is indeed weakened by sprinkling with ash and can be easily removed soon after application. However, ash also contains many pollutants, even relatively "clean" wood ash. These naturally get into the soil, also damage the grass and disturb the biological soil balance. At best, you should use ash to combat moss in pavement joints.

    The types of moss in your lawn

    Of course, not all species of the huge group of mosses are relevant for the local garden culture. However, in principle, moss species from all three major departments can occur in our gardens. The divisions into which mosses are classified are called:

    • mosses (botanically Bryophyta)
    • liverworts (botanically Marchantiophyta)
    • Hornworts (botanically Anthocerotophyta)

    In our gardens, and especially in lawns, representatives of mosses are the most common. The group in turn includes an enormous number of subdivisions, orders, classes, families and genera. A total of around 15,000 species can be counted in this department. In central European latitudes, the following are more common:

    • Sparse wrinkle brother (Rhytidiadelphus squarrosus): Most common species causing widespread matting in lawns
    • Common short box moss (Brachythecium rutabulum): Strongly branched, needle-like forest moss, very common
    • Grove peat moss (Sphagnum capillifolium): Pretty heather moss with plump, plump heads
    • Spit Peat Moss (Sphagnum cuspidatum): relatively large and delicate, weak-stemmed habit, yellowish-green, likes to grow in very damp locations
    • Versatile leske moss (Leskea polycarpa): Likes to overgrow trunks and floors with deep green carpets

    Of the 10,000 species of liverworts, the most common are the following:

    The fountain liverwort looks like small mushrooms

    • fountain liverwort (Marchantia polymorpha): Ribbon-like thallus with midrib and notched edges, wide brood cups
    • Tender liverwort (Monosolenium tenerum): is often used as a decorative moss for aquariums
    • Bidentate comb moss (Lophocolea bidentata): common lawn moss that is very drought tolerant

    Hornworts are less common here.

    Annoying types of moss in the lawn

    Those who most often excel as grass-displacers in garden lawns are the sparse wrinkled brother and the two-toothed crested moss. Both are strong grass displacers and grow on poor as well as nutrient-rich soils. Above all, they like damp, shady locations, but the bidentate comb moss in particular can also survive longer periods of drought.

    background

    The world of mosses

    Mosses are initially a thorn in the side of many garden owners. But if you take a closer look at them, you can be fascinated by the amazing plants. Mosses are indeed a very special species in the plant world.

    First of all, it is exciting that there are still some gaps in their research. They are among the Methusalems among the land plants of this planet, which is why scientists have to rely on fossil evidence for their study. It is now believed that mosses were the pioneers in the transition from aquatic to terrestrial plant life. They probably originated from green algae on the sea coasts - about 400 to 450 million years ago.

    Mosses have a relatively simple structure and are therefore very frugal and adaptable. Most species prefer shady, damp locations and can reproduce generatively via spores.

    However, their stubborn adaptability to survival also leaves a great deal of room for interpretation: some moss species, despite their love for water, which they absorb and nutrients mainly through their above-ground parts of the plant (they don't even have real roots), can survive long dry periods surprisingly well. Some species have even adapted to particularly barren, dry rocky or desert regions.

    Mosses also have two aces up their sleeves when it comes to reproduction: in addition to generative reproduction via spores, they can also reproduce vegetatively, which is necessary in locations where only one sex is represented. Mosses can form breeding bodies on practically all plant parts.

    frequently asked Questions

    How can moss in the lawn be permanently removed?

    Stubborn moss can be quite a nuisance and labor intensive. If the conditions in the garden are unfavorable (or favorable for the moss), the moss can always gain the upper hand over the grass and demand the scarifier.

    Unfavorable conditions for a grassy, moss-free lawn are above all a lack of nutrients in the soil, a loamy, heavy and wet soil composition, too much shade and too low a pH value. The best way to get rid of moss permanently is to take consistent action against these conditions.

    A lack of nutrients ensures poor grass growth, while moss copes better with it and then quickly gains the upper hand. A regular supply of nutrients through long-term fertilizers containing potassium is therefore advisable.

    A heavy clay soil that tends to waterlogging is best improved over several years with sand to loosen it and make it more permeable.

    Conditions that are too shady are not always easy to fix. If you don't want to radically say goodbye to tree and shrub planting, you can do a lot with thinning out and cutting back.

    A low pH value also weakens the lawn grasses and reduces their ability to compete with moss. Acidification of the soil should therefore be counteracted by adding lime.

    How can moss in the lawn be removed biologically/environmentally friendly?

    Probably the most environmentally friendly method for removing moss, because it is purely mechanical, is and remains scarifying and the accompanying soil improvement and lawn strengthening with gentle means. It is also the most durable. If you are reasonably fit, use a scarifier or a simple iron rake to remove moss for the first time. With an electrically operated machine, you can also largely save yourself sweaty, backbreaking work.

    When it comes to moss infestation, nothing beats a scarifier

    You can also use vinegar to help remove moss - although it is not really harmful to the environment, it leads to acidification of the soil in the long term, which in turn is a starting aid for renewed moss formation. Larger, homogeneous moss carpets can also be weakened a little with hot water.

    There are numerous environmentally friendly means for the accompanying soil improvement and lawn strengthening. Heavy soils can be improved with sand, nutrient-poor soils can be supplied with manure, rock dust and compost.

    Is it possible to remove moss without having to scarify?

    Unfortunately, you can hardly avoid scarifying. If you want to get rid of the moss permanently, mechanical removal is the most important measure to begin with. However, you can make the work a little easier by weakening the moss with certain means beforehand.

    This can be done with vinegar, hot water or soda, for example. Herbicides are of course out of place with moss in the lawn because they also attack the grass plants.

    Can moss be removed with home remedies?

    To a certain extent, moss can be weakened with home remedies, but due to various side effects, they are usually more advisable for moss in pavement joints or on wooden surfaces.

    Moss is sensitive to vinegar, for example. But because acid gets into the soil, conditions that are unfriendly to grass are created in the long run, which causes moss to form again.

    Soda is often recommended as a home remedy for weeds. Due to its property of removing nutrient salts from plants, it also has a clearly visible effect. However, to ensure that the same does not happen with grass plants growing directly next to it, the method is only suitable for homogeneous moss surfaces or pavement joints.

    Ash can also attack moss, making it easier to remove. The problem with ash, however, is that it also contains some pollutants that get into the soil when it is spread and disturb the soil environment and grass growth there.

    Using hot water to combat moss has little effect at best.A real relief for scarifying cannot be expected from this.

    Fertilize, mow and water the lawn - but when?

    In order for the lawn to be nice and strong, you should provide it with fertilizer in the spring. Use an organic long-term fertilizer that lasts until summer. Then you can give the lawn a second helping.

    You should mow the lawn about once a week during the growth phase, but not too short! 4 centimeters is the absolute minimum.

    Although water is beneficial for moss, it is also essential for healthy, vigorous grasses. If they are stressed by drought in summer due to prolonged lack of precipitation, this weakens them greatly. Therefore, blast it regularly in the morning or evening hours when such a dry phase prevails.

    Can moss go in the compost?

    In principle yes, but only if certain composting rules are observed. If the whole mass of combed moss is simply thrown onto an open compost heap, no proper decomposition process can take place that also destroys the spores.

    To create a hot compost that kills the moss propagules, layer the material in thin, dense layers on top of the compost. Each layer of moss should be alternated with layers of other, assorted garden and kitchen debris, such as shredded shrub cuttings, leaves, raw vegetable scraps, or eggshells. Some interim storage of garden soil also promotes stringent rotting. In order to enrich the compost with trace elements, it is advisable to also sprinkle it with powdered rock.

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Vegetable garden