- timing is unmistakable
- An exemplary soil for pricking out tomato plants
- Uncomplicated pricking with the right accessories
- Pricking out stress-free - step-by-step instructions
- Appropriate care after transplanting
- tips and tricks
Skillful sowing is rewarded with vital tomato seedlings that show dynamic growth. Before moving to the open country, pricking out is on the agenda. The following instructions show in detail how to do this.

timing is unmistakable
Experienced home gardeners don't prick out tomato plants on a rigid schedule. Rather, pay attention to an optical identification sign that signals the right date for the separation. When the first 'real' pair of leaves thrives above the two cotyledons, the time is ripe. The visual difference between the two leaf types is so clear that even absolute beginners can have no doubts.
An exemplary soil for pricking out tomato plants
The sown seeds of tomato plants first have to show what they are made of in poor substrate. After pricking out, more nutritious soil is available for the maturing seedlings, because the tiny ones should at least reach a height of 30 to 40 centimeters by the time they are planted out in May. Therefore, these soil mixtures are recommended for the second phase of cultivation:
- Vegetable soil from the garden center, additionally thinned out with the help of quartz sand, (15.85 €) peat, or perlite
- commercially available standard pricking soil based on green compost
- Proprietary mixture of 1 part garden soil, bark humus and sand with 3 parts compost and 4 parts perlite, (37.51€) polystyrene balls or peat
In order to guarantee sterility, the soil mixture is sterilized. So you make sure that there are no pathogens of diseases or eggs of pests hidden in it. Pour the earth into an ovenproof bowl and put it in the oven at 150 degrees for 30 minutes or in the microwave for 10 minutes at 750-800 watts.
Uncomplicated pricking with the right accessories
The list of accessories for pricking out tomato plants is short; nevertheless, each position contributes to the successful course of the somewhat delicate procedure. In any case, it makes sense to use a special pricking stick made of wood, metal or plastic. The tool only costs a few euros, but its functionality certainly surpasses any makeshift method. The following variants are shortlisted as suitable planters:
- Clay pots with a diameter of 10 centimeters
- 9 cm plastic pots
- Maxi peat spring pots from Jiffy
Clay pots are watered extensively before use so that they do not deprive the tomato plants of moisture. Plastic pots are only suitable with a bottom opening as a water drain to prevent waterlogging. If you prick out in peat pots, later plant them together with the tomato plants in the bed or pot.
Pricking out stress-free - step-by-step instructions
Tomato plants are never more fragile than during pricking out. It is therefore advisable to transplant each seedling individually. Two to three hours beforehand, the seedlings are thoroughly watered, which facilitates the entire workflow. Fill the pots about 5 centimeters high with substrate. If you use clay or plastic containers, drainage made of pebbles or grit comes through the bottom opening. (46.95€) This is how it goes on:
- Loosen the soil around the seedling with the pricking stick
- lift the plant out and examine the roots
- Shorten roots that are too long with your fingernails to a length of 2 centimeters
- Use the pricking stick to make a well in the substrate to insert the seedling
- Fill in the rest of the soil up to the cotyledons and press down
The substrate ideally forms a small turtleneck around the stem below the cotyledons. Since tomato plants are capable of forming adventitious roots at this point, they promote stability for further growth. If the seedlings are grafted, the grafting area must not be covered with soil. Last but not least, pour the youngsters with room-warm water.
Appropriate care after transplanting
For the first three to four days after pricking out, the tomato plants are allowed to recover in a warm, semi-shaded place. Only then do they move to a bright location. Temperatures and light conditions must be kept in a suitable balance so that the young plants do not wither. The higher the mercury column rises, the more light must be available.
Tomato plants should not be exposed to direct sunlight during this phase of growth. Only in the week before moving to the field, they are accustomed to direct sunlight by the hour during the day. Constant watering is particularly important to compensate for the loss of moisture. Tomato plants receive fertilizer no earlier than the second week after planting.
tips and tricks
If you want to offer your tomato seedlings the ultimate substrate, use vermiculite as transplanting soil. The natural silicate of aluminium, iron and magnesium is mineral, germ-free and tops every soil mixture. Vermiculite promotes root growth while retaining water and providing excellent aeration. However, it has its price of 39 euros for 100 liters.