The cotoneaster(s) were planted. But in retrospect it becomes clear that the planting distance was chosen too generously or too few plants were bought to cover the entire ground like a carpet. If you don't want to invest money in more cotoneasters, you can multiply them with your own hands…

Offshoots: Gladly on your own

With the propagation method via runners, not much needs to be done. The cotoneaster mostly likes to do this on its own. In late autumn you can separate the runners from the mother plant. At their new location they need about 1 year to grow.

Sowing: Complex affair

Gardeners who like to experiment will find sowing a long-term procedure. That's how it's done:

  • harvest a handful of the ripe and poisonous follicles in October
  • pull out the contained, hard and flattened seeds
  • clean and stratify the seeds
  • put in potting soil and stimulate to germinate
  • ideal germination temperature: 20 °C

Cuttings: Reliable and proven

The cotoneaster is easy to propagate with cuttings. The twigs that are cut between February and April can be used. But: The mature shoots are only suitable for propagating the evergreen cotoneaster species. They should be about 8 cm long and are put into the ground for rooting. High humidity is ideal. For example, you can put a plastic hood over the cuttings.

Deciduous species are propagated using semi-mature shoots. They are taken from the cotoneaster in early or mid-summer. If you plant the cuttings after rooting in the nursery bed or at home, add a portion of compost to the planting hole.

Lowering: This can take time

This tried-and-tested ground cover can also be propagated using sinkers. This happens in spring or in autumn. It can take up to two years until the sinkers are rooted and can be separated from the mother plant.

The simplest and fastest propagation methods for the cotoneaster are via cuttings and offshoots.

KKF

Category:

Vegetable garden