Narrow growing fruit trees are the green miracle of space in the small garden and on the balcony. Apples, pears, cherries and plums thrive as high-yielding columnar fruits. You can read about what is important when it comes to cutting care in this tutorial.

How much and when to cut columnar fruit depends on the type of fruit

Table of Contents

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  1. fruit types and dates
  2. Cut apple column
  3. Pear Column Cut
  4. Cut cherry column
  5. Cutting instructions plum column
  6. regulate height growth
  7. frequently asked Questions

    8. Types and dates of columnar fruit

    The steep career of columnar fruit began with the apple. It wasn't long before gardeners with a lack of space could enjoy high-yielding columnar pears. Pillar cherries and plum columns in large pots have long been commonplace in trendy urban gardening. Low space requirements and uncomplicated pruning care have made columnar fruit so popular. The correct cutting time plays a key role. Before you familiarize yourself with a species-appropriate cut in this tutorial, please take a look at this table with recommended dates:

    fruit type best appointment alternative date
    Apple early spring (February/March) after harvest
    pear Summer (mid/late June) none
    cherry after harvest February/March (aging cherry tree)
    plum, damson after harvest after leaf fall (October/November)

    The Federal Nature Conservation Act also has an influence on the choice of date. As long as it is an easy maintenance pruning that might not disturb nesting birds, it may be done in the summer. The legislature permits extensive pruning measures from October 1st to February 28th, provided that there are no overwintering animals in the wood.

    Rarely cut apple column

    Columnar growth is only naturally pre-programmed in the hereditary traits of apple varieties. In fact, all apple pillars can be traced back to a progenitor known as natural mutation thrives. The short fruit wood emerges directly from a strong, tautly upright central shoot. Individual growth as a so-called twine tree rarely requires horticultural intervention with scissors or saw. How to properly cut a columnar apple:

    • apple pillar only cut if necessary
    • The best time is in February when the weather is frost-free and dry
    • Long side branches without fruit set Cut off to astring close to the trunk
    • Long side branches with fruit set Cut back to 1 cm above the future apple
    • Prune steep shoots and deadwood at the base
    • Do not leave stubs and do not cut into the stem bark

    If the cut leaves a stub more than 5 centimeters long, the apple column will sprout vigorously at this point. If your columnar fruit is affected, remove all young shoots that are too long and grow inward. Leave short, well-positioned shoots as future fruiting wood. If such a short shoot grows too steeply, regulate the direction of growth with a spreader or string so that it is at an ideal angle of 60° to the trunk of the column.

    Video evidence for a short and meaningful video explaining how to cut a columnar apple:

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    Cut to Astring - this is how it works

    Branches that are too long or steep impair the yield and fruit quality of your columnar apple. Can you on the relevant drive no fruit set realize he will cut away on astring. With this cutting technique, use the scissors or saw in such a way that the small bulge between the branch and the trunk is not damaged. If there is no such a ring, cut parallel to the column trunk. Important: Do not cut into the stem bark and do not leave a stub.

    Cut pear column annually

    A column of pears grows faster than a column of apples. Furthermore, as a columnar fruit, pears are not a natural growth form, but a selection of particularly slender spindle trees that are grafted onto a weak base. Both conditions require a different incision than on the columnar apple. After a few years without cutting care, they form long side shoots, which sabotage the slender growth as a cord tree. How to complete the perfect pear column cut:

    • The best time is in the second half of June
    • Cut back long side branches protruding from the column to 10 to 15 cm
    • Place scissors over a downward or inward-facing bud

    On this occasion you should all Thin out steep shoots, which are in competition with the column trunk. Prune these branches as well short cones. In the period that follows, several young shoots will sprout here. Select up to three flat spurs suitable for fruiting. All other young shoots must give way.

    tips

    You can master the pruning of columnar fruit with bypass scissors. The special advantage lies in the two sharp cutting edges that run against each other and create smooth cuts. Anvil shears consist of a sharp cutting edge and a blunt counterpart, the anvil. This reduces the effort required; In return, there is a risk of bruises on the shoot with a variety of negative consequences.

    Cut the cherry if necessary

    A columnar cherry was originally intended to thrive as a spindle tree. Because the tree stood out in school with a strong central shoot and extra short side shoots, it was chosen by the master gardener as a columnar fruit and grafted onto a slow-growing rootstock. Over the years, a cherry column tends to sprout sterile long and steep shoots that run counter to the productive columnar growth. With a summer maintenance cut, you can bring growth back into balance. How to cut correctly:

    • The best time is at the end of June
    • Cut back long shoots protruding from the column to 10 to 15 cm
    • Start the cut a short distance from one eye

    As the figure below demonstrates, the maintenance cut is also dedicated to steeply upright branches. These turn out to be competition to the columnar trunk unpopular and should removed will. Also cut here for short tenons. This pruning enables fresh shoots that, with a little luck, produce new short shoots that are useful as fruit wood.

    In order for a columnar cherry to retain its slender growth habit, cut back overly long side branches to short cones. Remove shoots because they compete with the trunk and torpedo the columnar shape.

    digression

    Cut senescent columnar fruit in stages

    Many types of columnar fruit are characterized by premature senescence in the lower half. At this point in time, there are still no signs of aging in the upper area. By cutting senescent columnar fruit in stages on different dates, you compensate for the shortcoming. Trim the weaker bottom in February to force growth. Cut the stronger, vital upper area in summer. The strategy for pear, cherry and plum is recommended. As the only true columnar tree, the apple does not tend to age prematurely and does not require this pruning measure.

    Cut the plum column occasionally

    Cutting plums and cherries in a columnar shape is no different. Both types of stone fruit benefit from an occasional care and maintenance cut after harvest. Anyone who misses this date will catch up on the pruning during the leafless autumn and winter period. Slim down the center of your columnar plum by trimming back overly long side branches to a short spigot. Steep shoots are also not desirable in a plum column and are thinned out.

    Pillar fruit too high - what to do?

    Vigorous growth at a young age allows columnar fruit to grow to undesirable heights. In this case, please don't let yourself be tempted to simply cut off the center drive tip. Removing the top bud causes massive sprouting of side buds because the juice pressure is redirected there. The following rule of thumb applies to the premises in the pruning care of columnar fruit: Cutting the top of the tribe is taboo.

    However, you do not have to accept the unwanted height growth of columnar fruit without doing anything. How to regulate the trunk height using a derivative cut:

    • The best time is on St. John's Day (June 24) or at the end of February
    • Look out for an unbranched, vital side shoot below the top of the trunk
    • Start the scissors at the fork of the column top and side branch
    • Ideally, cut 2 to 3 mm into the old wood
    • Remove excess competitors to the trunk top

    From now on, the previous side branch takes over the management position. On fast-growing fruit columns, such as pears or cherries, please wait with the derivation pruning until growth calms down after a few years. Until then, the desired final height will be temporarily exceeded. Even as a derivative, a premature cut results in massive sprouting, which spoils the joy of columnar fruit.

    frequently asked Questions

    Is columnar fruit self-fertile?

    Mostly columnar fruit is dependent on a second variety as a pollinator. In the case of apples, pears, plums or cherries, a normal fruit tree in the neighbor's garden can take over this task. Balcony gardeners quickly plant two different varieties in a large bucket. Although nurseries and garden centers offer some self-pollinating species in columnar form, crop yield and fruit quality are mostly disappointing without a neighboring pollinator.

    The tip of our columnar cherry has dried up over a length of 30 centimetres. Otherwise the plant looks healthy. Should I cut off the tip or not?

    A look inside the drive helps with the decision. Scrape off a little of the rind. If brown tissue appears, the wood in this area has died. If the shoot below the bark is still green, the cherry tree is probably suffering from drought stress and will sprout again. Cut the shoot tip back into the healthy wood.

    I would like to plant columnar fruit in tubs for the balcony and terrace. What to look out for

    The severely restricted root space in the pot makes the cultivation of columnar fruit a horticultural tightrope walk. Like any fruit, columnar fruit should also be planted in the bed if possible. Successful tub keeping is largely dependent on ensuring a regular supply of water and nutrients. Furthermore, we recommend a large bucket with at least 20 liters volume at the beginning. The pot should grow with you over the years. Repot your columnar fruit every 2 to 3 years in a new pot with fresh substrate or replace the soil completely.

    My columnar plum is 3 years old, thriving splendidly and productively. I'm unsure about cutting care. When and how should I cut?

    As long as your pillar plum meets all expectations, pruning is not necessary. In general, columnar fruit should grow almost uncut. Only overlong side shoots are shortened to a length of 15 to 20 centimeters. Take this opportunity to thin out dead wood and steep shoots.

    My columnar cherries are now 14 years old, almost 5 meters high and very sprawling. Can I restore the slim growth habit with a cut? Is it still worth it with such old columnar fruit?

    Garden practice has taught us that columnar fruit can live up to 25 years. Consequently, a rejuvenation pruning for your columnar cherries is definitely worthwhile. Since the cutting goes beyond a normal maintenance cut, we recommend an appointment in February, in accordance with the provisions of the Federal Nature Conservation Act. Cut back all side branches to 2 to 4 eyes. Thin out dead wood and steep shoots. If you want to shorten the height, direct the trunk tip to a lower, healthy side shoot. In March, apply an organic fruit tree fertilizer or a mixture of compost and horn shavings to strengthen it.(32.93€)

    The 3 most common cutting mistakes

    If a columnar pear is pruned like a columnar apple, the pruning error reduces future harvests to a minimum. Not pruning at all will be punished with a cord tree that is only remotely reminiscent of slender, high-yielding columnar fruit. The following table draws attention to the three most common pruning errors, provides information on typical damage and tips for prevention:

    cutting error damage picture prevention
    Pear column cut like an apple column Less fruit wood, massive crop failure next year Always cut long side shoots on the pear column to the cones
    never cut shapeless growth, dense branch network, few flowers Trim columnar fruit every few years
    Leader clipped too early strong shoots of infertile steep shoots, decline of flowers and fruits Shorten the oversized leader from the 5th year at the earliest by means of a derivation cut

    Another common mistake in pruning is made by home gardeners when choosing the date. The many pleas for pruning in overcast weather tempt columnar fruit to be pruned in rainy weather. Pathogens have been waiting for wounds in damp wood. Wound parasites are primarily to be mentioned, which cause the dreaded fruit tree cancer. The cunning fungal spores can only germinate in damp wood. For this reason, you should always prune columnar fruit in dry, cloudy weather.

    tips

    Every steep shoot has the potential to become fruit wood. Do not simply cut off a taut, upright growing branch on columnar fruit. Check in advance whether it is positioned so favorably that it is worth spreading. Tie the shoot with twine at an angle of about 60° to the center shoot. The growth can also be directed in the oblique direction with a spreader or clothespin. Blossoms and fruits will not be long in coming.

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