Fan palms-so named for their large, green, fan-shaped fronds-are easy-care and attractive houseplants. There are several types, but they are mainly suitable for indoor culture. The vigorous Washingtonia species are particularly popular.

The fan palm is a very popular houseplant

Table of Contents

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  1. origin and use
  2. appearance and growth
  3. leaves
  4. toxicity
  5. Which location is suitable?
  6. substrate
  7. Water the fan palm
  8. Fertilize the fan palm properly
  9. Cut the fan palm correctly
  10. repot
  11. hibernate
  12. diseases and pests
  13. species and varieties

    14. origin and use

    The term "fan palm" does not refer to a specific species or genus, but is a collective term for palm species with palmate, fan-shaped leaves. There are numerous species that are native to different parts of the world. While the popular Washingtonia species - such as the desert palms Washingtonia filifera or Washingtonia robusta - come from the south-east of the USA or north-west Mexico and are now also widespread in the Mediterranean region, the hemp palm (Trachycarpus fortunei) has its natural habitat in the high mountains Asia. With us, however, these and other species can only be cultivated in tubs because of the lack of or only weak winter hardiness.

    appearance and growth

    Fan palms usually grow solitary and tree-like, even if palms are not technically trees due to the lack of a thickened trunk. The upright growing stems are typically densely covered with annular leaf scars and covered with dry leaves.

    leaves

    The different fan palms owe their name to the characteristic structure of their leaves. The single leaves are very large, palmately divided and have a fan-shaped outline. The veins of the leaves are arranged radially from the base of the petiole to the edge of the leaf.

    toxicity

    Since the various types of fan palms are among the so-called true palms, they are non-toxic and therefore harmless to humans and animals.

    Which location is suitable?

    Like almost all other palm species, fan palms also need a lot of light - after all, these are plants that grow in nature in very exposed locations, in the case of the Washingtonia, for example, in the desert. Place the potted plants as bright and warm as possible at temperatures between 20 and 25 °C, although direct sunlight during the midday hours should be treated with caution: This can lead to leaf burns, which is why it makes sense to shade the plants.

    substrate

    Palm trees feel most comfortable in a special palm substrate. If, on the other hand, you want to mix the substrate yourself, choose coarse sand, which you mix in equal parts with compost, peat and expanded clay (€19.73). A high proportion of minerals in the substrate is beneficial for the plants, and it also increases the permeability of the mixture. Palm trees are usually used to drought and do not tolerate excessive moisture - certainly not waterlogging.

    Water the fan palm

    In spring in particular, during the main growth period, you should provide fan palms with sufficient water. For this purpose, always keep the soil slightly moist, but not wet, and do not water too much at once - frequent and heavy watering not only leads to waterlogging (which palm trees do not like at all), but also flushes minerals and nutrients out of the substrate . Before each watering, do the finger test: If the substrate is dry on the surface, you can water it - otherwise not. During the hot and dry summer months, it also makes sense to moisten the leaves from time to time, for example with lime-free water from an atomizer, so that the large leaves stay green and don't turn brown.

    Always use lime-free water to water the fan palms. If you use tap water, the plant will die sooner or later.

    Fertilize the fan palm properly

    For healthy and beautiful growth, fan palms need a balanced nutrient cocktail. Supply the plants between April and August with a liquid fertilizer that contains in particular nitrogen (for the growth of leaves and shoots), phosphorus (the development of healthy and strong roots) and potash (for stability). You can use special palm fertilizer, but this is not absolutely necessary. Always administer the fertilizer together with the irrigation water and never tip it onto a dry substrate.

    Cut the fan palm correctly

    In contrast to the so-called false palms - such as the yucca palm, which is also widespread as a houseplant - you shouldn't simply cut down fan palms if they get too tall. Cutting off the top often results in the death of the entire plant. Only remove dried, brown or yellow fronds, leaving no remains on the trunk - these serve as welcome breeding grounds for pathogens and parasites. If possible, pruning is done before putting them into winter quarters. When cutting, be careful not to injure yourself on the thorns.
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    repot

    The palm trees need to be repotted in early spring, so that the container plant can then switch to the growth phase with fresh substrate and a larger pot. Do not knock the old soil out of the root system, but place it in the fresh substrate - this makes it easier for the plant to grow. In addition, the new plant pot should be a few sizes larger, with the Washingtonia species in particular also needing deep planters: they form a deep taproot. The right time to repot is when the roots start to grow out of the pot.
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    hibernate

    As a rule, fan palms survive low temperatures of around minus eight degrees Celsius quite well. Good protection against the cold is still important, especially if the plant is to remain outside over the winter months. To do this, however, the palm tree must be packed well:

    • Tie the fronds up with a thin rope.
    • Put an airy, large sack (e.g. made of jute) over the palm tree.
    • Styrofoam plates, arranged and tied around the palm tree, also protect against the cold.
    • Cover the trunk with dry mulch or a bamboo mat.
    • Mulch the substrate to protect the roots.

    However, if long-lasting or deep frosts are to be expected, you should bring the palm into a cool but frost-free and, above all, bright winter quarters. Water only a little, don't fertilize at all until April. Overwintering in the living room is also possible, but difficult because of the dry heating air and the lack of light in the winter months. Keep humidity levels high and install additional plant lights if necessary.
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    diseases and pests

    Fan palms are often attacked by mealybugs, mealybugs and scale insects, which are difficult to detect because of their colour. Therefore, check the plants regularly for an infestation so that you can intervene quickly if the worst comes to the worst and prevent an invasion in good time. Incidentally, the first sign is often brown or yellow discoloration of the fronds. In general, palm trees react with such discolored leaves when they do not feel well: This can also result from a location that is too dark, cold, insufficient fertilization and overwatering (waterlogging) or drought. If brown or yellow leaves appear on your fan palm, it is important to carefully search for a cause and, if found, to stop it accordingly.

    tips

    You can grow fan palms yourself from seeds that you can buy in specialist shops. However, you need patience as germination takes several months.

    species and varieties

    Usually, the three species Washingtonia filifera, Washingtonia robusta and Trachycarpus fortunei are assigned to the fan palms, sometimes the Livistonia, which actually belongs to the umbrella palms but is externally quite similar, is also included in this group.

    Washingtonia filifera

    Washingtonia filifera is a robust, quite fast-growing palm species that is used to dry locations and has its desert home in the southern USA and in Mexico. In their natural environment, these fan palms can reach a height of up to 15 meters and a trunk diameter of around one meter - this is of course not possible in a container culture, here the plant remains much smaller. Watch out for the thorny leaf stalks, which are easy to injure.

    Washingtonia filifera is colloquially known as priest palm or petticoat palm, which is due to the numerous, dried up brown leaves covering the trunk. In a room culture, however, you can safely remove them. The Washingtonia filifera tolerates some frost for a short time, but should be overwintered frost-free.

    Washingtonia robusta

    Washingtonia robusta is very similar in appearance and growth to the species Washingtonia filifera, but is considered to be more robust and less sensitive - just not to cold, because in contrast to W. filifera, W. robusta tolerates temperatures of a maximum of minus five degrees Celsius for short periods. The species is native to north-western Mexico, where it is usually slightly wetter than the traditional home of W. filifera.

    Trachycarpus fortunei

    The Chinese hemp palm grows in a rather unusual climate for palm trees, namely in the heights of the Asian mountains up to 2500 meters above sea level. As a result, this species is particularly well suited to cultivation in a Central European climate, as it is naturally used to a rather cool climate. The species feels particularly comfortable in a bright location with temperatures between 15 and 20 °C. Older specimens can also tolerate frost down to about minus ten degrees Celsius for a short time, but should be overwintered as cool and frost-free as possible. The hemp palm is often confused with the dwarf palm (bot. Chamaerops humilis) and is therefore often incorrectly found in trade under this name. However, they are different species with different needs.

    Livistonia / Livistonie

    Although the different types of Livistonia palms are often assigned to the fan palms, they are actually umbrella palms. Livistona australis, Livistona chinensis and Livistona rotundifolia are particularly popular indoor plants. All species should be cultivated all year round at temperatures between 20 and 25 °C, although you can also put them outdoors in summer. The palm trees need a bright location (but without midday sun) and only little water.

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Trees