- Dried leaves from frost damage
- Water oleanders regularly, even in winter
- Dry rot often occurs after winter
In its capacity as a plant from the Mediterranean region, the oleander conjures up a Mediterranean touch in the home garden, but it is not necessarily uncomplicated to care for. Especially during the winter, it is important to follow a few important instructions so that the oleander does not get dried up leaves after the winter.
Dry leaves after winter can be the result of frost damage
Dried leaves from frost damage
If the leaves are green and firmly attached to the shoots, but at the same time bone dry and crumble easily, then they probably have frost damage. This can also occur if the plants were supposedly made winter-proof - for example, were wrapped up warm or have overwintered in a (not frost-proof) garden shed. With the frost-sensitive plant, a frosty night is often enough for the oleander to freeze to death. Whether the affected specimen can still be saved depends above all on the condition of the roots: if they are intact, you can cut back the oleander and it will sprout again. However, if the roots have also gotten frost, the plant can no longer be saved in most cases.
Slowly get the oleanders used to the sun after clearing them out
If the oleander gets dried up leaves after the winter, this is not necessarily due to winter damage. A lot of damage is also caused by clearing out the winter quarters too quickly. Basically, you should not put the oleander in the sun directly from the darker hibernation. Instead, the shrub should initially be in the shade for a few hours. The hours outside and the hours of sunshine are only slowly being lengthened.
Water oleanders regularly, even in winter
Another common mistake when oleanders overwinter is that watering is forgotten or done too seldom. Although oleanders need significantly less water in the cold season than during the growing season, they should still be watered about once a week.
Dry rot often occurs after winter
Dried leaves, inflorescences and shoots after the winter break are also often a sign of the so-called dry rot (Ascochyta), a fungal disease typical of oleanders. This usually occurs during or after hibernation and affects the above-ground parts of the shrub, then gradually migrates towards the roots. This disease can only be countered with preventive spraying.
tips
Plants that have wintered cold can generally be removed from their winter quarters earlier than those that have wintered warmer. The former have experienced a certain hardening during the cold season and are therefore more robust.