Trees thrive not only in the forest or in the garden, but also in a bucket or other planter. All you need is the right location and very careful care.
The olive tree is always grown in a pot because it is not hardy
Choice of tree species
In principle, any tree can be cultivated in a pot, as has been done with bonsai in Japan for thousands of years. However, some species are much easier to keep in tight spaces than others, which is not only due to their natural needs, but also to their growth behavior. High-growth species are not always tolerant of pruning, so it is difficult to keep them small artificially. If you don't want to or can't invest too much care and effort in your potted tree, it is best to choose a species that has been specially bred for planters. These include about
- Columnar trees, for example columnar fruit, columnar thuja, etc.
- Dwarf varieties of common species, such as the dwarf ash (Fraxinus excelsior 'Abiona')
- naturally rather small species and varieties, such as boxwood (Buxus)
- or noble varieties grafted onto slow-growing rootstocks, often found on fruit trees
Well suited for a pot culture are, for example:
- Common yew (Taxus baccata), hardy
- Dwarf pine (Pinus mugo), hardy
- Juniper (Juniperus communis), hardy
- Star magnolia (Magnolia stellata), not hardy
- Purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), not hardy
- Japanese cake tree (Cercidiphyllum japonicum), hardy
- Japanese maple (Acer palmatum), hardy
- various citrus trees (Citrus), not hardy
- Olive tree (Olea europaea), not hardy
- Pomegranate (Punica granatum), not hardy
- Fig tree (Ficus carica), not hardy
- Willow (Salix), hardy
- Pagoda dogwood (Cornus controversa), hardy
Taprooting tree species such as oak, pine and fir are very difficult to maintain in a planter.
Choosing the planter
If possible, you should not buy bare-rooted trees for a future potted tree, but young trees that have already been grown in containers. These are already used to the bucket culture and were not dug out of the open and repotted in a planter. A planter is the ideal size if it offers about twice as much space as the root ball. It shouldn't be any bigger either, otherwise the tree will put a lot of energy into root growth. If possible, choose a pot made of natural materials, such as clay or ceramic, as water accumulates very quickly in plastic pots.
maintenance
Proper care will keep the tree healthy in the pot, but depends on the specific needs of the species and variety chosen. Nevertheless, some general statements can be made.
watering and fertilizing
Planted trees are forgiving of one or two care mistakes - potted trees are not. For better or for worse, these are dependent on your care, whereby particular attention should be paid to the supply of water and nutrients. Make sure that
- no waterlogging occurs, v. a. with good drainage
- the root ball does not dry out
- there is no nutrient deficiency
- but also no oversupply
Over-fertilization can be prevented by using slow-release fertilizers.
hibernate
Hardy trees can stay outside during the winter months, you just should
- place on an insulating base made of wood or styrofoam
- wrap the pot with fleece or foil
- and push the pot and tree against a house wall
Non-hardy trees and shrubs, on the other hand, should be frost-free but kept cool at a maximum of 10 °C. Dust-shedding species can also be placed in dark rooms, while evergreen ones need sufficient light even in winter.
tips
Potted trees should be repotted in fresh substrate every two years, whereby the planter does not necessarily have to be changed.