If maple trees had a say, they would remove pruning from the maintenance program. Red maple is no exception in this respect, especially since it forms its magnificent, broad-rounded crown under its own steam. However, you do not have to accept unbridled growth with long whip shoots. This guide explains when and how to properly prune a red maple.

Appointment in autumn minimizes the risks
Blood maple is a direct descendant of the native Norway maple (Acer platanoides). The growth of both trees is characterized by a strong flow of sap from every small wound. Careful scheduling reduces the risk of bleeding a maple tree. After the autumn leaves fall, the sap pressure decreases. Until the temperatures drop below -5 degrees Celsius, the time window for pruning on the blood maple remains open.
Restraint is trumps - Instructions for the pattern
Every pruning on the blood maple is accompanied by a risk of fungal infestation. Please clean the cutting tool carefully before you start the shape cutting. When making the cut, keep in mind that maple species often have difficulty driving out of old wood. How to do it right:
- Thin out dead branches beforehand without leaving long stubs
- Then shorten branches that are too long
- Set the scissors at a slight angle a short distance from a sleeping eye (thickening under the bark)
Limit pruning to annual and biennial wood. Since a red maple grows between 20 and 25 cm per year under normal conditions, do not cut off more than 50 cm from a shoot. If you are forced to trim an old, thick branch, proceed in three stages: Saw the branch 30 cm from the trunk from the bottom to the middle. Move the saw 10 cm outwards to saw off the branch from above. Cut off the remaining stub on the astring.
tips
If you have ordered your blood maple to change location, pruning cannot be avoided. Transplanting maple trees and shrubs inevitably involves the loss of root mass. All shoots are cut back by a third to ensure that the branches are always supplied with water and nutrients at the new location.