The evergreen photiniae boasts decorative attributes if it is pruned correctly at the best possible time. For the impressive triad of luminous leaf sprouting, picturesque blossoms and autumnal berry decorations, skilful pruning plays a key role. This tutorial deals in detail with the pruning of Photinia species as a magnificent specimen, majestic hedge and distinctive standard. You can find out here when and how to cut photinia correctly.

A slight topiary can be done in summer

Table of Contents

Show all
  1. Types of cuts and dates
  2. plant cutting
  3. build-up cut
  4. Thinning cut solitaire
  5. Topiary hedge
  6. Topiary tree crown
  7. taper cut
  8. frequently asked Questions

    9. Types of cuts and dates

    The best-known representative of the glossed medlar genus is the red-leaved glossed medlar with its star variety 'Red Robin'. The most beautiful adornment of the ornamental shrub is a bright red shoot of young leaves. In sunny locations, the play of colors inspires from spring to summer. Pretty contrasts arise when the white flowers appear from May to June. In fall, the flower spikes turn into red, apple-shaped berries that provide valuable food for birds. With a timely pruning, you can support the picturesque festival of colors and keep the medlar in shape. The following table summarizes all cutting options with information on the best possible dates:

    cut type goal/occasion best appointment Appointment option II
    plant cutting good branching at the base of the bush after planting in spring late June to mid-July
    build-up cut compact growth to final height after flowering mid to late August
    Thinning cut solitaire Thin out dead wood, preserve shape every 3 to 5 years from February to early March none
    Topiary hedge Growth control, promotion of colorful leaf sprouting every year after the flowering period at the end of June if necessary mid to late August
    Topiary tree crown preservation of the crown shape several times per season from the end of June to the end of August none
    taper cut gradual revitalization over 3 years in January/February none

    Medlar species bloom from May to June on the previous year's shoots. It is also the young wood that gives us the colorful leaf sprouting. From the growth behavior results that the ornamental trees basically reserved be cut. The classic appointment for pruning trees in early spring is not necessary because the flower buds fall victim to it. A suitable time window opens up after the flowering period for topiary and corrective cuts on solitaires and hedges. However, when the inflorescences wither, the plants for the decorative fruit decoration are removed at the same time. Cultivating photinas as a hedge means the gardener has to decide between a neat, accurate appearance or autumnal berry decorations. After all, regular pruning keeps the wood young and vital, so that it can show off its bright red shoots from spring to summer.

    Cut on the day of planting

    Beginners in pruning have reservations about pruning young medlars on the day of planting. Although 'Red Robin' and conspecifics thrive at a growth rate of up to 50 centimeters per year, cutting the few young shoots makes you feel unsafe. The background explanations below explain why you should overcome all concerns and subject your photiniae to a plant cut. As a result, you will be rewarded with a vital branch at the base of the shrub, which is permanent. How to do it right:

    • After planting, cut back all shoots by a third or half
    • Remove noticeably weak or damaged branches
    • Start each cut 3 to 4 millimeters above an outward-facing bud

    Measure the extent of the cut according to the rule of thumb: the better the young plant branches out, the less it needs to be cut. It is an advantage if you already have one at this early stage of cutting care pyramidal shape strive. This premise applies equally to the solitary shrub and the hedge. Light and sunbeams can only get deep into the wood if the crown is narrower than the base.

    For a medlar to branch strongly as a solitaire or hedge, cut back the shoots by a third or half. This creates a sap in the lower part of the bush, which encourages dormant buds to sprout.

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    No branching without sap pressure - plant pruning makes it possible

    In many plants, the summit bud dominates growth. At this point there is stronger growth than on the side buds. With pressure, most of the nutrients are pumped towards the top bud as the plant wants to win the race to the light. The effect is clearly visible when the summit bud is removed. Immediately afterwards, increased sprouting sets in on side buds that were previously supplied with lower priority. The explained Top bud dominance is less pronounced in evergreen trees than in herbaceous or deciduous plants. Nevertheless, the removal of top buds on the leading shoot and on the shoots below it has the effect that buds at the base of the bush sprout more and trigger dense branching.

    Gradual build-up cut

    The loveliest photiniae varieties impress with loose, broad, bushy growth. The top of the variety 'Red Robin' achieves an impressive width of up to 200 centimeters with a growth height of 300 centimetres. This entails the risk that the shrub will quickly fall apart as a solitaire and hedge. With a gradual build-up cut encourage compact, densely branched growth. Here’s how to do it professionally:

    • Prune solitary or hedge after flowering at the end of June
    • Cut this year's growth down to 10 or 15 centimeters
    • Optionally cut back the renewed growth in mid-August to 10 or 15 centimeters

    Prune photinas on the top and sides to develop a dense, bushy habit. From the beginning of September there is no more pruning so that the branches mature before the first frost. stick to that conical section profile loyal, so that the trees always thrive as a shrub or hedge, flooded with light.

    tips

    Medlar species are closely related to hawthorn (Crataegus), firethorn (Pyracantha) and cotoneaster (Cotoneaster). The genera are assigned to the rose family. In contrast to the prickly relatives, glossed medlars do without sharp thorns. Only the not hardy Photinia davidsoniae is armed with small thorns.

    Rarely cut solitaire

    A skillful build-up cut releases the medlar with a harmonious, stable silhouette at the desired height. Subsequent cutting care is limited to Thin out of deadwood as well shorten overly long shoots that protrude from the mold. How to do it right:

    • Prune the medlar shrub every 3 to 5 years
    • The best time is February to early March
    • First cut off dead wood at the base
    • Remove weak and transverse shoots that are directed towards the inside of the bush
    • Branches protruding from the shrub shape indicate a young side shoot

    Please note the different dates compared to the build-up and shape cut. A clearing cut affects the growth deeply, so that it is subject to the provisions of the Federal Nature Conservation Act. It stipulates that radical cuts on woody plants, such as pruning or putting on the stick, are permitted from October 1st to February 28th. In the midst of the summer grace period, slight maintenance and shaping cuts are permitted in this year's growth.

    Deriving excessively long shoots - brief instructions for deriving cuts

    If the gardener is familiar with the derivation cut, the bridge from the amateur "somewhere cut" to the professional "know-how cut" will succeed. If overly long shoots protrude from your medlar, the cutting technique of the derivation solves the problem. If you cut the offending branch anywhere, there will be a gap in the appearance. Instead, proceed as illustrated in the figure below, slim down the drive. How to do it right:

    • Choose a short, vital side shoot in the lower area of the shoot to be shortened
    • Pick up sharp, disinfected pruning shears
    • Stabilize the branch with the other hand
    • Set the scissor blades just behind the fork of the old and young shoots
    • Result: young side shoot takes over the leadership position

    Be careful not to cut into the young wood. It is an advantage if you start the cut 2 to 3 millimeters behind the branch on the old shoot. Up to a branch diameter of 3 to 4 centimeters, complete the cut with pruning shears with a bypass mechanism for smooth cuts. For drive strengths that go beyond this, we recommend a folding saw (€17.70), also known as the Japanese saw.

    The pruning of overly long branches succeeds professionally with a derivative cut. Cut off an old, worn-out shoot where a young side shoot branches off.

    Cut the medlar hedge into shape

    In regions with mild winters and sheltered from the wind, photinia bushes form a hedge with a special flair. The evergreen, shiny leaves paired with bright red shoots make the hedge a feast for the eyes with a privacy factor. So that the green wall stays in shape with that certain extra, opens end of June the time window for cutting care. How to get the perfect shape:

    • Check the hedge for nesting birds and cut later if necessary
    • Cut back branches that are sticking out at the sides
    • Shorten branches protruding from the top
    • Ideally cut in a trapezoid shape

    If the hedge consists of strong-growing medlar varieties such as 'Red Robin' or 'Pink Marble', make a note of another topiary for mid to late August. The pruning for this year ends at the beginning of September so that your photinia hedge goes into the cold season with stable shoot tips.

    digression

    Magnificent leaf dress thanks to manual cutting care

    Gloss medlar owes its name to the elegantly shiny, smooth-edged leaves, which are up to 5 centimeters wide and 15 centimeters long. Machine-operated scissors are unsuitable for skilful cutting care. Electric shrub and hedge trimmers work with short or long cutter bars that run in opposite directions. Single counter-rotating knives work with a movable and a non-movable cutting edge. Double counter-rotating knives have two movable cutting edges. The way it works involves the risk of large medlar leaves getting caught in the cutter bar. So that the magnificent leaf dress survives a pruning undamaged, we therefore recommend one for all types of cuts manual two-hand hedge trimmer.

    Prune the standard medlar every year

    The premium variety 'Red Robin' has a brilliant career ahead of it as a high-stem refinement. The innovative variant is perfect for the creative design of small gardens and has recently taken gardeners' hearts by storm. The undemanding cut compatibility allows training as a shapely spherical crown. Due to the vigorous growth of young shoots, grab the scissors at least once a year. This is how the perfect crown cut succeeds:

    • The best time is after the end of the flowering period between the end of June and mid-July
    • Cut back all shoots that are hanging or standing out of the crown shape
    • Ideally, shoots that are too long should be diverted to a young side shoot
    • Remove shoots that point towards the inside of the crown
    • Preferably prune back just above an outward-facing bud

    So that balcony gardeners can enjoy the picturesque play of colors, competent breeders have produced 'Little Red Robin'. The evergreen trunk graft remains at a height of 80 centimeters and has all the magnificent attributes of its big brother. The cutting care of both varieties does not differ.

    Pruning on buds - this is how it works

    If young shoots sprout outwards after a cut, you have done everything right. The secret of success lies in the pruning technique on buds. The figure below illustrates the correct procedure compared to a faulty cut. Put the scissors just above one outward facing bud on. A bud can be recognized as a slightly thickened knot under or on the bark. A cut into the bud is just as unfavorable as a long stub.

    Always cut photinia shoots a short distance away to an outward-facing bud. With this pruning technique, you show sprouting shoots the right direction of growth to the outside of the crown, bush and hedge.

    Rejuvenate in stages

    If the ravages of time gnaw at a medlar, you can use a rejuvenating pruning to get the colorful blossoms and leaves going again. Revitalization succeeds if you proceed in three stages. Far away from their Asian homeland, photinia bushes lack the strength to rejuvenate in one go. How to proceed correctly step by step:

    • The best time for each stage is between the end of January and the end of February
    • First stage: Thin out dead wood and cut back one side of a bush or hedge
    • Second stage: shorten the opposite side of the bush or hedge
    • Third stage: Prune the crown of a shrub or hedge by one to two thirds
    • After each cut, fertilize with compost and horn shavings (32.93€) or guano granules

    Photinosaee cope better with a rejuvenation cut if you remove as many old shoots as possible. Before you radically cut off an old branch, please look for a young side shoot in the lower area. Where old and young wood fork, it is cut. If there is no suitable option for the derivation, cut or saw off the offending branch at a height of 20 to 30 centimeters. A step-by-step approach improves the incidence of light inside the plant after the first stage. This has the advantage that in the course of regeneration, the first shoots sprout and bare spots grow over.

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    Rejuvenation pruning activates dormant buds

    When radically pruned branches sprout again from short stumps, woody plants never cease to amaze us. The photinia is one of the diverse shrubs that are capable of this floral masterpiece. With foresight, plants lay dormant buds as they grow. The only task of these dormant vegetation points is the replacement of plant parts that fail due to adverse circumstances. The medlar interprets a rejuvenation pruning as an emergency and drives out of its dormant buds. In gardeners' language, the reserve systems are called sleeping eyes because they are tiny and almost invisible beneath the bark, waiting to be activated.

    frequently asked Questions

    Frost damage to my photinia - what to do?

    As an Asian immigrant, the photinia cannot rely on the home advantage of reliable frost hardiness. The young shoots with the red leaf sprouting are particularly at risk. Late ground frosts in spring leave a picture of devastation on the shrub. Leaves and shoot tips hang limp and freeze to the ground. This is no reason to completely write off the affected photinia. Wait until mid/late May. After the ice saints you can clearly see the extent of the forest damage. Cut dead shoots back into healthy wood. To identify healthy wood, they scrape off a little bark. Wherever green tissue appears, you can use the scissors. After pruning, apply an organic fertilizer to encourage growth.

    Can the photinia 'Red Robin' be made into a ball as a single bush? If so, should I put two plants together for denser growth?

    In a single position, the photinia 'Red Robin' is up to 2 meters wide. For this reason, one plant is sufficient if the site conditions are right and a sufficient supply is ensured. The 'Red Robin' variety tolerates pruning well and can easily be pruned into a spherical shape.

    How narrow can I cut medlars as a hedge. Our driveway allows a maximum hedge width of 40 centimeters.

    In principle, it is possible to raise a hedge of medlar with a width of 40 centimeters. However, the very narrow growth habit requires frequent pruning appointments. Pruning is required at least 3 times a year to prevent your hedge from growing into the driveway.The tree of life 'Smaragd' (Thuja occidentalis) or the pruning-tolerant yew (Taxus baccata) are more suitable for the design plan. Among the deciduous trees, beech (Fagus sylvatica) and hornbeam (Carpinus betulus) are ideal.

    The photinia has grown too big for my small garden. Can I cut the shrub back heavily now in October?

    Glossy medlars are generally well tolerated by pruning. An important prerequisite for the budding after a strong pruning is the time. Ideally, prune the shrub in early spring, ideally in February to early March. Then provide the medlar with compost and horn shavings or an organic complete fertilizer. Now in October the plant has stopped growing and no longer sprout. In addition, freshly cut shoots are threatened by frost damage.

    When and how often should I prune the red medlar for an even and dense growth?

    The more often you prune medlars, the stronger the shoots will branch and the denser the growth. A pyramidal cutting profile is particularly important for medlars. The bush should be noticeably wider at the bottom than at the top. Otherwise, it is to be expected that the bush or hedge will bare, which can only be remedied by a radical rejuvenation cut. In the first three years we recommend pruning a red medlar in February, June and August. The growth rate of older specimens is reduced, so that an annual topiary in late winter is sufficient.

    Should the withered flowers of a medlar be cut off, shouldn't it? The shrub is in a sunny location in the middle of our family garden.

    By autumn, the blossoms of all photinia species and varieties have turned into poisonous fruits reminiscent of small apples. Consuming a few berries is enough to induce nausea and vomiting. If the ornamental tree is within reach of children, all withered flowers should be cleaned up immediately after the flowering period. Place the scissors below the terminal panicles, just above an opposite pair of leaves.

    Our 8-year-old photiniae 'Red Robin' has never been pruned. The shrub is now quite bare near the ground. Will the bush become dense again after pruning?

    The photinia 'Red Robin' is very easy to cut and then reliably drives out again. You should carry out a strong pruning in two or three stages. First, trim the sides by a third or half. Take this opportunity to thin out dead branches and remove any twigs that are unfavorably growing inwards. In the following year, prune the crown of the shrub by a third. The best time is in early spring, just before new shoots begin. The cut causes a sap accumulation in the lower part of the bush, whereupon new shoots sprout. In addition, we recommend fertilizing the medlar regularly with compost and horn shavings.

    The 3 most common cutting mistakes

    A photinia without flowers and fruits is the victim of a typical pruning error. The same applies if the ornamental tree develops a shapeless shape or no longer sprout after a rejuvenation cut. The following table summarizes the 3 most common mistakes when cutting medlars:

    cutting error damage picture prevention
    cut in spring Loss of flowers and fruit ornaments Prune medlar after flowering
    long branches cut misshapen, patchy growth always cut on outward-facing buds, derive overlong shoots
    Taper cut in one go total failure rejuvenate in 3 stages

    tips

    Photinus are native to Asian regions and only conditionally hardy. So that the evergreen ornamental trees survive a Central European winter unscathed, cover the soil in the bed with fir branches and leaves. Cover the tubs with several layers of bubble wrap and place the containers on a block of wood. If winter comes with bitter cold and bright sunshine, a fleece hood protects the shrub from winter drought stress.

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Vegetable garden