With majestic funnel flowers, the tropical Dipladenia transforms beds, balconies and terraces into an opulent summer fairy tale. When the blossom festival draws to a close in autumn, hobby gardeners rightly ask the question: Can Dipladenia be overwintered? These instructions explain in a beginner's way how the trendy flowers survive the winter safely.

Unfortunately, the beautiful Dipladenia is anything but hardy

Table of Contents

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  1. the essentials in brief
  2. Not hardy
  3. Location Tips
  4. Lack of space allows pruning
  5. care tips
  6. preparatory work
  7. What to do in case of leaf loss?
  8. Control aphids
  9. Species and cold tolerance
  10. Grant in time
  11. Winter out gradually
  12. Pot and cut
  13. frequently asked Questions

    14. the essentials in brief

    • Dipladenia are not hardy and cannot be overwintered outside
    • An exception is the frost-hardy variety Mandevilla laxa (Chilean jasmine)
    • The Dipladenia needs light and temperatures between 10 and 15°C in winter
    • It is not advisable to cut back the dipladenia before laying; which is why pruning should only be carried out in an emergency

    Dipladenia are not hardy

    A look at the distribution areas on Wikipedia reveals that the majority of Mandevilla species are native to South America. In tropical habitats, temperatures below freezing are almost unknown. As a result, Dipladenia are not hardy in Central European regions. For this reason, hobby gardeners usually opt for annual cultivation. After the first frost, the summer flowers die off and go to the compost.

    In many warm vegetation zones around the world, Dipladenia species are a familiar sight on streets, in parks and gardens because the plants thrive here as perennials. It is thanks to this fact that the colorful potted plants repeat their blossom festival in the Central European climate, provided they are allowed to spend the winter in a species-appropriate manner.

    No rule without exception

    The only Dipladenia that tolerates frost is the pure species Mandevilla laxa, also known as Chilean jasmine. In the course of progressive global warming, the robust plant in Swiss Ticino has already proven to be completely hardy and is planted out in many places all year round. It is only a matter of time before the robust Dipladenia species makes the leap across the Alps. In climatically favored wine-growing regions, Chilean jasmine can be kept outside continuously, provided appropriate precautions are taken against severe frost.

    The Mandevilla Laxa is currently the only hardy Dipladenia variety

    Where can Mandevilla winter? - Location tips

    The Dipladenia needs two things to hibernate:

    • enough light
    • Temperatures between 10 and 15°C

    If the Dipladenia is too warm in winter, it may not bloom the following year.

    To put it simply, provide a bright winter quarters that are not in full sun, frost-free and not too warm for a mandevilla. If you put the tropical plant inside, the heating season has long since begun. An attempt to convert Dipladenia into a houseplant in the cozy and warm living room is doomed to failure. The following table lists suitable and unsuitable locations for overwintering dipladenia behind glass:

    suitable location unsuitable location
    House flat living room
    bedroom kitchen
    basement, cellar Boiler room/laundry room
    conservatory outside
    garage balcony/terrace
    staircase living room
    Glasshouse
    winter tent

    Overwinter the Dipladenia in the basement

    Gardeners who have neither a conservatory nor a frost-free greenhouse at hand often overwinter their Dipladenia in the basement. However, this is only a really good option if it is bright enough here. Although the temperatures in the unheated cellar are ideal for the Dipladenia (usually between 11 and 15°C), a lack of light is not good for the Mandevilla. Therefore, you should only overwinter your Dipladenia in the basement if it can stand near a large window.

    Explanations of suitable winter locations

    Proud owners of a conservatory, greenhouse or glazed terrace do not have to look far for the ideal winter quarters for Dipladenia. Suitable alternatives are all rooms with bright lighting conditions and a slightly tempered room climate, such as a frost-free garage with windows and plant heating or a staircase flooded with light. In the absence of the options mentioned, it is advisable to invest in a winter tent with a frost guard, under the protection of which a beloved Dipladenia can spend the cold season.

    Explanations of unsuitable winter locations

    A Mandevilla should not participate in the show on the wintry window sill in the well-heated living room or office. Unlike the uncrowned winter queen called Amaryllis, dipladenia cannot cope with a combination of lack of light and heat. This premise also disqualifies the kitchen, living hall and warm basement rooms near the heating, washing machine and dryer as a location for the winter.

    The Dipladenia needs a lot of light in both summer and winter

    Cut back if there isn't enough space

    Please consider carefully whether to prune your dipladenia before storing. As the growth law of top support teaches us, every cut causes the plant to sprout vigorously. So close to the start of hibernation, your tropical beauty will emerge severely weakened from a pruning. Please only use scissors if the winter location is extremely tight and you otherwise have no space available. Please make a note of the central shape and maintenance cut for early spring. How to prune a mandevilla correctly in autumn:

    • Put on gloves to protect against the poisonous milky juice
    • Cover tiles, stone floors with foil or place the plant on grass or soil
    • Clean out faded flowers
    • Shorten overly long shoots by the amount that is absolutely necessary

    Please take this opportunity to carefully inspect all shoots and leaves. Look for signs of pests such as aphids or scale insects. If you find one, fight the lice before moving to the winter quarters. High infestation pressure is an argument for canceling the plan to hibernate in order not to endanger other floral winter guests.

    tips

    Dipladenia tend to ooze sticky milky sap from larger cuts. You can easily stop the flow of juice by having small cotton balls or pieces of paper handkerchiefs handy. After each cut, press a ball of yarn on the wound, no stubborn secretion will drip onto the evergreen leaves.

    Winter care - tips & tricks

    Proper care is one of the mainstays of a successful overwintering of dipladenia. As part of the preparation, you stopped giving fertilizer and adjusted the watering needs to the changed requirements. In the winter quarters, the tropical tub plant wants these benefits:

    • Fill coasters with water and expanded clay or grit to increase local humidity
    • Spray leaves once or twice a week with lime-free, room-warm water
    • Water occasionally to keep the soil from drying out completely

    Pay a visit to your Dipladenia at least once a week while it is overwintering to give the plant a thorough inspection for pests and diseases. At the first signs of an infestation, please isolate the affected Mandevilla from other plants before you devote yourself to adequate control methods.

    Prepare for the winter from July - this is how it works

    From the end of July, prepare your Dipladenia for the planned hibernation. For this purpose, the maintenance program is subject to a modification. From this point on, please do not apply any more fertilizer. A stop in the nutrient supply causes growth to slow down and all shoots to mature. If the plant registers falling temperatures, it stops growing completely and is perfectly prepared for the upcoming winter season.

    If the move to the winter quarters is imminent in the near future, please water more sparingly. Your Dipladenia is already counted when you put it in with a damp-wet root ball. Depending on the general conditions at the winter location, evaporation is reduced to a minimum, so that the plant in the pot suffers from wet feet. If the substrate is too moist, root rot and diseases are inevitable.

    A combination of lack of light and heat kills any Dipladenia in winter quarters

    Dipladenia loses leaves - what to do?

    Leaf loss in the winter quarters can be attributed to various causes. The following overview indicates the most common triggers for dropping sheets with tips for solving the problem:

    • lack of light: Relocate to a brighter to sunny location
    • drought stress: Immerse the root ball in soft water, drain well and water more frequently from then on
    • waterlogging: Stop watering or repotting in fresh, peat-free substrate for 2-3 weeks
    • cold: relocate to a place with 8-15 degrees Celsius, away from cold drafts

    If your Mandeville sheds dry leaves, the symptom indicates drought stress and waterlogging in equal measure. To determine the actual cause, please check the substrate with a thumb test. Press your finger into the soil an inch or two. If you don't feel any moisture, there is a need for watering. Noticeable wetness indicates waterlogging. The guesswork is over when you stick a moisture meter into the substrate.

    Control aphids in winter quarters

    In the winter quarters of evergreen dipladenia, aphids lie in wait to attack the lush green leaves. When moving from the balcony, the potted plants often already have the rabble in their luggage. The tiny pests hide cheekily on the undersides of leaves or leaf axils, hoping to escape the gardener's attention. A few specimens are enough to multiply explosively. How to fight aphids with a simple home remedy:

    1. Pack root ball in plastic bag
    2. Rinse the plant vigorously, ideally also upside down
    3. Boil 1 liter of water and let it cool down
    4. Stir in 20-30 grams of pure curd soap with 1-2 dashes of spirit
    5. pour into a spray bottle
    6. Spray Dipladenia at intervals of 3-4 days (please do not forget the underside of the leaves)

    Soap solution has proven to be unbeatably effective in the fight against aphids, eclipsing all chemical agents. Various manufacturers offer the proven household remedy ready-to-use, such as Neudorff with Neudosan Aphid-Free AF or Naturen with Bio-Pest-Free AF.

    Beautiful species - differentiated cold tolerance

    Most Dipladenia species tolerate temperatures around 0 degrees for a short time

    A colorful array of beautiful species leaves nothing to be desired when it comes to decorating beds, balconies and terraces with Dipladenia. The selection ranges from compact, small varieties to majestic climbing plants for facade greening. In relation to the short-term temperature minimum, the diversity shrinks to a minimum, as the following table shows:

    Surname flower color short-term temperature minimum Temperature overwintering
    Mandevilla Sundaville red Red 0 degrees centigrade 8 to 15 degrees Celsius
    Mandevilla Sundaville white pyramid White 0 degrees centigrade 8 to 15 degrees Celsius
    Dipladenia crimson red red, later fading to pink 0 degrees centigrade 8 to 15 degrees Celsius
    Dipladenia Diamantina Opale Citrine yellow 0 degrees centigrade 8 to 15 degrees Celsius
    Mandevilla laxa Chilean jasmine White - 10 degrees Celsius 0 to -5/-8 degrees Celsius
    Dipladenia Hybrida Rio deep red deep red 5 degrees Celsius 15 to 18 degrees Celsius

    Explanations of species and varieties

    Dipladenia with the cultivar name Sundaville are hybrids derived from the species Mandevilla sanderi. Japanese breeders have succeeded in producing the magnificently flowering varieties, which can be discovered ready-made as a pyramid, on a trellis or hanging in pots in garden centers from May. In addition to the popular white and red varieties, the series also offers yellow, apricot or pink flowering hybrids. For gardeners with a penchant for colorful pots, the Sundaville family offers the Tricolor variety with white, pink and red funnel-shaped flowers.

    The varieties of the Diamantine series from the hands of French breeders are causing a sensation. Representing the wide range of varieties, the table above lists Opale Citrine, the world's first yellow Dipladenia. In 2016, another sensation with bright orange flowers followed with Opale Orange Coral. The dwarf Diamanta varieties from the Jade series are recommended for cultivation in flower boxes or beds, with red, pink, white, yellow or striped flowers that allow creative design ideas to bubble.

    digression

    Overwintering worthwhile for pompous Dipladenia

    Well over half of all Dipladenia species and varieties sold impress with their compact growth and lush flowers. The growth of overly long tendrils is avoided as far as possible. Thanks to a treatment with growth inhibitors, the beauties remain at a growth height of 20 to 40 centimetres, ideal for adorning flower beds, graves and window boxes in summer. (109.00 €) Many years of gardening have proven that the effort of overwintering is only worthwhile for magnificent , voluminous dipladenia, which the breeder prefers to start the season on a trellis with a height of at least 40 to 80 centimetres. These experiences are confirmed by experts from the well-known online shop Mein-schöner-Garten.

    Grant Dipladenia in good time

    If you cultivate Dipladenia in a pot or bucket with an integrated climbing aid, this foresight proves to be practical for uncomplicated and time-saving storage. Attach a minimum-maximum thermometer near the site, determine the right time to overwinter the cold-sensitive plants. If the temperatures drop below 8 degrees Celsius even at night, the starting signal for wintering is given. Mandevillea can only cope with a minimum temperature of 0 degrees Celsius for a short time. An entire night below freezing severely reduces the chances of success for a multi-year cultivation. The winter quarters should be like this:

    • bright, but without direct sunlight
    • slightly tempered with 8 to 15 degrees Celsius
    • adequately removed from cold drafts through doors or tilted windows

    If it is too dark at the winter location, there is a risk of yellow leaves and leaf loss. As a late consequence, the flowering time next spring is delayed by several weeks because the leafless Dipladenia first has to take care of growing a new foliage. You can prevent this inconvenience with the help of special lighting. Dipladenia friends report good experiences with a plant lamp that bathes the site in a plant-specific blue/red light spectrum with the help of an LED spotlight.

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    Special case Mandevilla laxa (Chilean jasmine)

    The conditional frost tolerance of Mandevilla laxa allows it to be hibernated outdoors in regions with mild winters in winter hardiness zone Z8. In wine-growing regions, on the Lower Rhine or in gardens with an adequate microclimate, you do not necessarily have to admit the container plant. Wrapped up thickly in a winter fleece coat and placed on an insulating wooden stand before the first frost, there is a good chance of hibernating unscathed.

    Winter out gradually

    For a Dipladenia, the end of winter means that it has to make do with serious differences between winter quarters and outdoor locations. An abrupt change of location pushes the tropical beauty to its limits and is often acknowledged with the failure of the flowering period. By wintering out a Mandevilla step by step, you skilfully avoid this problem. How to do it right:

    • starting at the end of March/beginning of April, administer a liquid flower fertilizer (1.95€) weekly
    • Water more often with low-calcium water for a slightly moist substrate
    • from the beginning/middle of May put the plant up during the day in a partially shaded, warm location
    • leave behind glass overnight
    • put up after 8 to 10 days in full sun for the summer time

    The end of hibernation does not mean that you can shelve the imminent threat of pests or diseases. On the contrary, throngs of aphids are there just in time for the start of the new season to feast on the juicy leaves of your Dipladenia.Please continue the checks seamlessly in order to take countermeasures in good time.

    Season Prologue - Repot and prune Dipladenia

    Set the course with a well-planned season prologue so that a hibernated Dipladenia shows its most magnificent side again. Growth is stimulated by repotting the plant in fresh substrate and pruning. Both measures are explained in more detail below:

    repot

    A high-quality potting soil without peat content is suitable as a substrate. Alternatively, Mandevilla thrive in a mix of equal parts conventional potting soil and coconut soil, enriched with expanded clay (€19.73) or lava granules. Some pieces of pottery shards on the bottom of the pot act as drainage to protect against waterlogging. Before you pot the climbing plant, detach the tendrils from the climbing aid. Then shake off the old soil, pot the plant in fresh soil and reattach the shoots to the trellis.

    To cut

    Switching to fresh substrate is the perfect opportunity to trim an overwintered Dipladenia. Thanks to an excellent cut compatibility, it is up to your horticultural assessment to what extent you carry out the pruning. Please keep in mind that the more radically you prune, the delay in the start of the flowering period. Protect your hands, clothing and floor from the sticky, milky plant sap. Preferably use sharp, disinfected pruning shears with a bypass mechanism. Please dispose of the slightly toxic clippings out of the reach of children and pets.

    frequently asked Questions

    Can a Dipladenia overwinter outside?

    Considering a minimum temperature of 0 to 8 degrees Celsius, you cannot overwinter a Dipladenia outdoors, even in wine-growing regions with mild winters. In its tropical home regions, the magnificent summer beauty thrives as a perennial climbing plant outside all year round. In the Central European climate, this horticultural masterpiece only succeeds in frost-free, bright winter quarters behind glass. The only exception to this rule applies to Mandevilla laxa, which can overwinter outside in hardiness zone Z8, provided appropriate protective measures are taken.

    Are dipladenia poisonous?

    Dipladenia belong to the dogbane family. A poisonous milky sap that escapes from wounds on shoots and leaves is characteristic of all species and varieties. The white, sticky secretion contains various toxins that are of concern to humans and animals. Direct skin contact can cause allergies and eczema. Intentional or unintentional consumption causes nausea and vomiting.

    Can I overwinter a Dipladenia warm in a pot on the windowsill in the living room?

    It is easy to understand that you would like to continue to enjoy the magnificent blooms of your dipladenia in winter. However, here the wish is the father of the thought. The Mediterranean serenity is lost if you treat the plant during the dark season with temperatures above 15 degrees Celsius. A constellation of lack of light and cozy room temperature will result in Mandevilla with the failure of the next flowering period or they will die. A recommended alternative is a place on the light-flooded window sill in the slightly tempered bedroom.

    Why is my overwintered Dipladenia still not blooming in June?

    Various causes cause a delayed start of the flowering period on overwintered dipladenia. From the second year and after pruning in spring, the plants have to cope with increased vegetative growth. Mandevilla often received too little fertilizer the year before. To ensure that there are sufficient energy reserves for another flowering period, please administer 20 to 30 grams of slow-release fertilizer for every 5 liters of substrate volume from March to the end of July. Alternatively, add a liquid flower fertilizer to the irrigation water weekly during the growing season.

    What should be considered when watering Dipladenia?

    Dipladenia thrive with a beet-shaped root as a water storage organ. This results in a moderate to low water consumption, because the substrate should only be slightly damp. In summer it is sufficient if you water the plant once or twice a week, provided that the soil on the surface is noticeably dry. If you overwinter a Dipladenia, the watering requirement drops to occasional watering so that the soil does not dry out completely. Use primarily low-lime and lukewarm water.

    Why are the leaves of my overwintered Dipladenia turning yellow?

    If a Dipladenia is in the winter quarters with yellow leaves, three causes come into focus. If the location is too dark and warm, the plant pulls in its leaves to hope for better times. Furthermore, hard, calcareous irrigation water in the substrate causes the pH value to skyrocket. As a result, the Mandevilla suffers from leaf chlorosis, recognizable by the yellowing of the leaves. A sudden move from the winter quarters to the full sun causes sunburn on the evergreen leaves. It starts with yellow spots that will quickly spread if you don't shade the plant for a few days to allow it to get used to the sun's rays.

    Should a Dipladenia be repotted after each hibernation?

    Annual repotting is not obligatory for overwintered dipladenia. Only when the roots press through the substrate or grow out of the opening in the ground due to lack of space can you no longer avoid the measure. So that the start of this year's flowering period is not unnecessarily delayed, the new pot must not be too large. There should be a maximum of two fingers of space between the root ball and the vessel wall.

    tips

    In no time at all, a strong-growing Dipladenia climbs its trellis to dizzying heights. Shadows cast by the dense foliage and blossoms make the base of the container plant bare. With a short-growing variety as underplanting, you can restore the uninterrupted bloom. Together, large and small Mandevilla move to suitable winter quarters in autumn.

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Indoor plants