As the garden year draws to a close, it's time for the autumn anemone. The beauty of the blossoms sets colorful accents in beds and tubs well into October. A concentrated position is taken here on open questions about the correct cultivation of an anemone hupehensis.

All plant parts of the autumn anemone are slightly poisonous

Table of Contents

Show all
  1. Plant autumn anemones correctly
  2. care tips
  3. Which location is suitable?
  4. The right planting distance
  5. What soil does the plant need?
  6. What is the best planting time?
  7. When is flowering time?
  8. Properly cut autumn anemones
  9. Water the autumn anemone
  10. Fertilize autumn anemones properly
  11. Diseases
  12. pests
  13. hibernate
  14. Propagating autumn anemones
  15. How do I plant correctly?
  16. Autumn anemone in a pot
  17. Is autumn anemone poisonous?
  18. Autumn anemone does not bloom
  19. brown leaves
  20. Yellow leaves
  21. The most beautiful varieties

    22. Plant autumn anemones correctly

    The Anemone hupehensis proves to be a long-lived and easy-care perennial if you take into account the requirements for the right planting in the appropriate location. After following these short instructions you will definitely succeed:

    • A partially shaded, sheltered location with humus-rich, nutritious soil is ideal
    • The planting pit is twice as big as the root ball
    • Improve the excavated soil with compost, leaf soil, guano (€121.99) and horn shavings
    • The planting depth in the bed corresponds to that in the seed pot
    • A perennial support gives high-growing anemone varieties the best stability

    Water the young Anemone hupehensis and then mulch with leaves, compost or grass clippings. If you plant the autumn anemone in small tuffs, small flower islands form for a furious season finale. A planting distance of 45-50 cm for large perennials and 30-35 for smaller varieties is recommended.
    Continue reading

    care tips

    Complete observance of all requirements for proper planting results in effortless care. The clear program in short form:

    • Water when the substrate has dried
    • Fertilize organically every 2-3 weeks from May to September
    • Clean withered flowers, cut off withered leaves
    • Cut back close to the ground in late winter

    In the first two years and in rough locations, we recommend winter protection in the bed. Cover the planting site with leaves, straw and pine fronds. Anemone hupehensis in tubs receive protection from frosty temperatures in the form of straw or leaves on the substrate in good time before the first frost. The planter is wrapped in bubble wrap and placed on insulating wood.
    Continue reading

    Which location is suitable?

    If an adequate water supply is guaranteed at the location, the anemone hupehensis thrives magnificently in sunny locations. If in doubt, we recommend a semi-shady place, for example in the protection of tall deciduous trees. Since some specimens reach a height of 100 cm and more, a wind-protected position is of the utmost importance.
    Continue reading

    The right planting distance

    Choose the planting distance proportional to the expected growth height. These distances have proven themselves in practice:

    • Growth height 40-90 cm: planting distance 30-35 cm or 8 plants per square meter
    • Growth height 90-140 cm: planting distance 45-50 cm or 4 plants per square meter

    If the Anemone hupehensis is used as a backdrop plant in front of trees, we recommend a distance of 75 cm.

    What soil does the plant need?

    Autumn anemones are a hit in the bed wherever they are offered this type of soil:

    • Rich in nutrients, humus and freshly moist
    • Gladly with a share of clay
    • Slight lime content is not a problem
    • Good water drainage, without risk of waterlogging

    As a substrate in the bucket, we recommend a structurally stable compost-based potting soil, optimized with expanded clay (€19.73) or lava granules (€13.99) for good permeability. A handful of bog soil or added peat prevents a too high pH value.

    What is the best planting time?

    The autumn anemone must first work out its winter hardiness in the bed. In order to give it a sufficient time window for this process, spring from mid/end of April is the best time to plant.
    Continue reading

    When is flowering time?

    The early autumn anemone unfolds its cup flowers from mid/end of July until well into September. Most of the Anemone hupehensis flowers from August to October. The more consistently the perennial is trimmed, the longer the flowers will last.

    Properly cut autumn anemones

    Professional pruning regulates the duration of the flowering period, creates space for the young shoots and provides picturesque supplies for the domestic vase decoration. Our tips for correct cutting:

    • Pruning anemone hupehensis regularly will prolong the flowering period
    • Cut out wilted flowers if seed formation is not desired
    • Cut back close to the ground only in late winter or early spring
    • Cut flower stalks for the vase early in the morning

    Continue reading

    Water the autumn anemone

    Keep the Anemone hupehensis constantly moist and avoid waterlogging. If you cultivate the perennial in the bucket, experience has shown that the need for watering is higher than in the autumn bed. It is beneficial to the health of autumn anemones if you alternate watering with chalky and soft water.

    Fertilize autumn anemones properly

    Anemone hupehensis requires repeated feeding. Fertilize the bed with compost every 2-3 weeks from May to September. Container plants receive a liquid fertilizer for flowering plants every 2 weeks.

    Diseases

    One of the likeable characteristics of an anemone hupehensis is its resistance to diseases. Only sooty mold as a consequence of an aphid infestation sometimes occurs. This fungal disease manifests itself in black-colored leaves. Cut back the diseased flower close to the ground and dispose of the clippings in the household waste.

    pests

    The ubiquitous aphids in the garden do not spare the anemone hupehensis despite their poisonous content. If the little beasts are cavorting on the pretty perennial, repeated spraying with the classic soft soap solution will finish them off. Mix a tablespoon each of pure soft soap and spirit with a liter of water and spray the infested autumn anemone.

    hibernate

    Since the Anemone hupehensis gradually develops its winter hardiness in the first two years, we recommend these protective measures:

    • Cover the root area with leaves and needle brushwood before the first frost
    • Cover the tub with bubble wrap, stand on wood and cover the substrate with straw

    Propagating autumn anemones

    The lush bloom of an anemone hupehensis awakens the desire for more specimens. The perennial offers several methods of propagation:

    • Division of the roots by cutting off runners in spring
    • Separation of root cuttings in late autumn

    Thanks to these uncomplicated propagation techniques, even advanced hobby gardeners decide against the complicated, lengthy sowing of seeds.

    How do I plant correctly?

    Anemone hupehensis anchors itself deep in the ground with its long taproots. Damage to the root system when transplanting is therefore inevitable, which means the end of the magnificent perennial. Only consider a change of location in exceptional cases. How to do it right:

    • In the spring, after pruning, loosen the soil with a digging fork
    • Use a spade to cut off root strands that are too long within the radius of the average growth height
    • Carefully lift the bulbous plant, including the taproot, out of the ground

    In order for the anemone hupehensis to grow again after transplanting, divide the rhizome into 2-4 segments with a sharp knife. It is also important to have a well-measured portion of compost as an addition at the new location.

    Autumn anemone in a pot

    The early Anemone hupehensis 'Praecox' and other delicate varieties thrive in pots. Choose a pot shape that offers enough space for the deep-reaching taproot. As a substrate, we recommend high-quality compost-based potting soil. Above the floor opening, a drainage system made of potsherds prevents harmful waterlogging. How to care for the autumn anemone in the pot:

    • Test the substrate every 2 days using the thumb test
    • If the surface of the earth feels dry, it is watered
    • Apply a liquid fertilizer every 2 weeks from May to September
    • Pinch off faded flowers and cut out withered leaves

    As the blooming season draws to a close, winter is just around the corner. Do not cut back the autumn anemone now, but only in late winter. Wrap the pot in bubble wrap, set it on a block of wood, and cover the soil with pine branches, straw, or leaves. During a dry, frosty winter, water the Anemone hupehensis on mild days.

    Is autumn anemone poisonous?

    The botanical assignment of Anemone hupehensis to the buttercup family rightly makes experienced hobby gardeners sit up and take notice. All members of this plant family are considered mildly toxic to humans and animals. Care must therefore be taken in the reach of small children and pets. We recommend that you wear gloves when planting and tending.
    Continue reading

    Autumn anemone does not bloom

    If an anemone hupehensis is slow to flower or fails completely, the following triggers cause the nuisance:

    • Drought stress: keep the substrate constantly moist
    • Over-fertilization: it is better to fertilize organically with compost
    • Waterlogging: check the location, repot the potted plant and water less

    Improper transplanting also leads to damage to the roots. In this case, there is no longer any salvation for the autumn anemone.

    brown leaves

    If the leaves of an Anemone hupehensis turn brown, this is usually due to neglect in the care of the anemone. First and foremost, drought stress results in withered, brown leaves. If the roots are in permanently moist soil, the foliage will also turn brown. The same applies if the autumn anemone is at the mercy of continuous autumn rain.

    Yellow leaves

    Yellow leaves are an alarm signal that the soil pH is too high. Although the Anemone hupehensis easily accepts a slight lime content, a value of 7 should not be exceeded. As a result, the vital nutrient iron is bound in the substrate, resulting in deficiency symptoms that turn the foliage yellow. Fertilize specifically with an iron preparation from the specialist trade and pour decalcified tap water or collected rainwater from now on.

    The most beautiful varieties

    • Alba: majestic, richly flowering and stable variety with creamy-white flowers from August to October
    • Queen Charlotte: elegant flower beauty with a growth height of 60-90 cm and soft pink, semi-double flowers
    • Rose bowl: the new breed impresses with dark pink flowers that are darker on the back and on the edge
    • September charm: recommended variety with dainty 60 cm and pure pink cup-shaped flowers
    • Margarete: magnificent, semi-double flowers in bright red with a yellow center and a height of 80 cm
    • Honorine Jobert: historic variety from 1858, robust, long-lived, richly flowering in bright white

Category:

Herbs